10-18-2009, 08:08 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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| Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009 Age: 38
Posts: 15
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Yeah, the stealership service department told me they put the arm on a block of wood and use a 3" socket and a hammer. But I suppose the truth of the matter is if you pay them to do that work and they screw up the arm, the guy simply comes and says, "I'm sorry sir, but it's going to cost more--the control arm on the passenger side was bad." Most people would buy that and simply pay an extra few hundred dollars...
I tried everything. I ended up taking both control arms to a local garage this afternoon, and one of the mechanics there took care of it for a few bucks. Although you probably could do this with enough time and determination, it is cheap enough to have someone with a press unseat the old bushings and reseat the new ones. Also, the risk of screwing up the entire control arm is there when trying to unseat bushings with a big ^@!$ing hammer..
I'd post a procedure for control arm removal, but the Haynes and Chiltons are pretty descript for it. Here are some tips though:
* The hard part is getting the control arms back in. You have to seat the bushings in the slot against the unibody/subframe first.
* If you look at the bolts for the back end of the control arms (the big bolts)--they are funny shaped on the ends for a reason. Once you get the bushing lined up with the bottom hole, and the top one as well as you can, seat the bolts with a hammer, then screw them in.
* For removal: The Haynes or Chiltons manual will tell you to use a pry bar to unseat the ball joint stud on the control arm (where it connects to the steering knuckle) once you remove the bolt and nut for it. You may not need it. Try a few good downward shoves to unseat it first. Mine came free easily.
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