08 Cobalt Passenger side noise while driving CV moves up and down

Discussion in 'LS, LT, LTZ' started by switchbacker, Jul 30, 2017.

  1. switchbacker

    switchbacker Junior Member

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    08 Cobalt Passenger side noise while driving CV moves up and down.
    I have a 2008 Chevrolet Cobalt LT 2.2 Auto Trans ABS 4 stud wheel hubs.
    I am looking for any info on my Axle Shaft noise, Axle Shaft Seal, Axle Shaft up and
    Down play/movement.
    I hear grinding/scraping/buzzing/ humming noise coming from the front of the car, while driving. It gets louder as I go faster. Wheel Bearings turn ok.
    On passenger side if I grab the inside CV and move it up and down
    it moves up and down more than my other Cobalt passenger shaft moves.
    When I jacked it up and pulled both the rotors off I could hear a noise while
    turning the passenger hub forward. After moving the shaft in and out and up and
    down the scraping/ grinding does not happen any more.
    I can see the seal where the axle shaft goes into the Transmission is very slightly weaping
    and there is some dry black fluid all around the seal but I have never seen a drop
    on the ground in my driveway.
    I have tried searching my topic using various terms but nothing close to my trouble.
    Thank You for any replies
    Switchbacker
     
    todd foreman likes this.
  2. todd foreman

    todd foreman Junior Member

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    I would start by replacing cv axle and the seal --since your seeing, hearing and notice a lot of play in it . The noise you hear as to if it sounds like a loud humming noise and gets louder as you speed up is a sign your wheel bearing-s need replaced and in that case it allows cv axle free play to move around which would cause noise due to being worn out . if it's not either of those 2 it would be internal in the spleen of transmission . also,make sure the axle bolt is tighten and that isn't the reason for so much play .
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2017
  3. switchbacker

    switchbacker Junior Member

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    Thanks I will try replacing both wheel bearings and I have another car I can take the axle from (very good condition) and a seal or seal kit. The kit comes with an bushing and Orings
    I guess they are for the transmission end!
    Thanks for all replies
    Switchbacker
     
  4. switchbacker

    switchbacker Junior Member

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    Wheel Bearings replaced and all is good
    Getting them of is difficult.
    The axle turned out to be fine,also transmission ok.
    Weaping is ok from what I have learned
    If you are interested in getting wheel bearings off (Hub and all)
    look here. Take and old disc/rotor from your car or one that fits and
    put it on backwards. Put some big washers on studs.
    Put lug nuts back on. I used some eye hooks as didn't have any
    washers big enough to fit studs. Make sure lug nuts are tight.
    Hit the disc/rotor with a 12 pond sledge hammer.
    There you have it. I call it the "Hub Bearing Assembly Buster"
    The CBK Hub Bearing Assembly units have been good so far 2 months of
    driving, no problems. They have SKF bearings in them.
    I will use them again for $90 CAD
    If you don't have ABS you can easily take the ABS off
    of the assembly. So either assembly can be used if no stock.
    See pics if they are still up.
    Thanks
    Switchbacker

    20170812_181219.jpg 20170812_181224.jpg 20170812_182523.jpg
     
  5. roosterk0031

    roosterk0031 Full Access Member

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    I picked a HF slide hammer a while back pretty handy for this task. On a 15-17 yo Stratus, it pulled the bearing apart, so I drilled a couple 1/4-3/8" holes where the bearing and spindle interface at a 45 degree angle, then took turns driving a tapper punch in each hole and then it came apart pretty easy. The inclined plane of the punch really amplifies the force.

    Other key on doing wheel bearing is don't be afraid the turn the steering wheel to help with wrench clearance and angle. Son and I did his 2011 Rogue a few months ago, first side took and hour, 2nd side was 15 minutes. On those you have to remove the ABS sensor first (or buy a new one like I had to).

    Another trick I've used to help determine which bearing is bad (use at your own risk) jack up one front tire, turn TC off if you have it, if you have a limited slip diff you can't do this. Start car put in gear and spin the tire, make it much easier to hear the bad bearing and determine which side is bad. In my experience the other one will start making noise in 10-15,000 miles so just go ahead and do both.

    I've done 3 wheel bearing on my 09, the ebay $50 one lasted 6 months. I went with moogs after than. Went with moogs on the Rogue as well.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2017

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