Cobalt electrical problems (>.<)

I have a 2007 chevy cobalt with 90k miles on it. I bought it brand new and have never had any issues with it until the other day. I was driving down the freeway and the power steering randomly shut off, the dash gauges started going crazy, the transmission shift assist shut off and it began shifting real hard and jerking...o and the worst part? the check engine light came on!!

I proceeded to bring it to the dealership thinking I have no worries because of that golden "100k mile bumper to bumper warranty" I bought. Wrong!
2 hours later they charge me 200 bucks and tell me that they found the problem. The negative battery terminal was loose and they went ahead and tightened it for me and everything should be good. I left annoyed but also glad the problem was fixed....Wrong! 2 days later same problem occured. My car now sits in a park and ride. Can anyone help me out with this problem or just maybe reassure me that I should be pissed at this crappy dealership for the BS they put me through?

Sounds like a wiring problem to me. Have them inspect the wiring, if there is a fault there then it won't cost you anything to fix. Batteries are never covered under warranty. Take the car back and demand you money back since they serviced your car without your permission and got nothing done.

I had a old part about the tcm going out... Power steering would flash on the dic. Wouldn't shift.I would search for it.....

my cobalt is having the same problem. Did they ever figure out what it was?

wow this post is old, i had this issue when i wired my amp for my subs. my remote wire was wired to my windshield wipers fuse. a strand from the wire at the amp contacted the B+ and caused said condition.

simular problem here. 61K miles. Happend 4 times, then went away. Finally went looking.

Found that the wiring harness was pressed up against the engine block my the Oil Filter, and was biting into the harness. Filed some of the sharp point down, Taped up the chewed area, and taped the harnes to hold in away. This is down near the oil dipstick.

Looking for what others might find.

63K Did it again. Trouble is that I was on a 30 mile run down CR11 into Canon. Not a fun ride. Was going to take the Skyline Drive, but passed it up this time. Did what I had to do, then stopped in at the Chevy Dealer. Gave them my Codes that I had pulled. Were all upset about that. I would like to clear the Codes. If the car has troubles, and I have to drive 100 miles. It it well and good. But what should happen if the Oil Pressure, or a Misfire should come up? The engine could be toast. Stopped in at the Chevy Dealer in Colorado Springs, and am told pretty much the same thing.

One thing that I did do was to have an Aftermarket Cruse control installed. It does not seem to be working all the time, and this morning I notice that the Information Center was not wanting to respond to stepping through the readouts. It seemed to be that the switch on the wheel was flaky. Once it started to work it stayed working.

What I did on the wiring harness did not solve the problem.

I do not like the Alternator charging to past 14.9 volts. Too high, causing gassing, messing up the battery which is sealed. Before I crack the case open, has anyone been able to add distilled water to one of these puppies? A second problem with the High Voltage is that the Lights burn out quickly. Found I was down to one Beam filament; Low beam passenger side. Remember it is a long trip to the parts store. I buy these two at a time. $$$$

$$$ When I take the car to the dealer to have it analyize it will be $110. Codes are Codes. Don't see what they need that my reading them does not give them. Only thing is that they are there.