2007 Cobalt won't start!!! HELP

BankDude

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i was saying to apply the brake to move the gear selector. because if he wasn't applying the brake, the gear selector wouldn't move. i'm sure he's figured out the problem by now or he would've been back
 

UncleDave

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It looked to me that the original question was proposed by a person looking for some very basic info. I also have a second hand 2010 Cobalt. It has been charging at a high voltage 15 volts that is known to boil (gas) the battery. And it has lost steering several times. One morning it would not start, and I had to Jump it. It started with a spare battery using the marked Jump points under the Hood.

Thought that it would be fun to help get this car going.

It should be a straight forward problem. The trouble is my car other than the one time that I had to Jump start it, basically has been running. So I have been basically looking at what I would do next seeing what was reported.

The other day I just about went off a steep, winding, dirt road. This made me mad. Drove my 50 miles to get my Current Meter. (Alternator / Starter) . Re measured the CCA,s again. 150 at the marked bolt. Tried the other 2. Found them also 175, and 200.
Thinking that they should all be about the same, I took them apart, and scraped off the paint and put some protective electrical paste on them, and put them back together. Now they are reading 250 CCA. Did the same with the connection in the Truck.

I have bought a pair of Walmart ramps, to get under the car to do the same with the straps. There is a small one man shop about 15 miles away. Stopped by this AM to ask if it would be possible to get under the Cobalt to just check the Grounds.

He listed off several things that are common problems with the Cobalt. ? The simpler ones would not be that hard to do. I just want to do them for myself so that I would not get anyone killed. Getting under the car as we all KNOW has the tendency to do this.

Questions. Why when I go in to GM, to ask about either of my problems do they say that I have to drive it in to have it analyzed? $120 It could be Fixed for less, and have change left over. Playing around on the NET, I find that GM IS having a 'Rolling Recall' They told me that they did not have a recall.

I have started to try some basic things, just to start. This car, Cobalt, has started to use electronics to improve the efficiency. I am surprised to see how POOR the Ground connections are. Scraping the PAINT off the Ground Surfaces, and putting a little Paste on them to prevent corrosion made a big difference. This anyone could do.


I would suggest that they go back and use a LOT of BLUFF, that we on this Forum would like to help them. That GM, if they would like to make a little 'GOOD WILL" would also think about it also.

Millions for Defense, but NOT One red cent for TRIBUTE!

One more thing that I did was to put Star washers under the 6 nuts. Trouble is that I know that my connections are now good. Did this fix the problem?

I would like to suggest that they contact AAA; they may have a favorite garage?

Have a friend that goes to a Favorite garage, and ask them as a favor to give it a check.

I still have the problem of my battery being charged to 15 v. I did put in a new one when I Know that the battery can't be the problem. I will have to get the Alternator replaced. This I now will have some expensive, but not that much. Just do it.

Uncle Dave.
 

DonaldE

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So i read 90% of this page and i'm kinda having the same problem, just 2 differences. 1 mine in manual, and 2 i get nothing when i try to start it. No clicking, not even an attempt to turn over. I have not tried to jump at the front point yet i'll be trying that tomorrow (now that i know about that), I'm thinking i should replace the starter relay and if that doesn't work have my starter checked and replaced if bad. The positive wire seems newish going from that battery to the front of the car. Any recommendations if none of that works?
 

roosterk0031

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My 2010 auto didn't like cold weather, don't know where you are but when it got below freezing the hazards would come on and run the battery dead, key wouldn't do anything. It finally started one warm day and I got it into my garage, few days later I decided to experiment and put it outside (Iowa last December). About 3 in the morning got a knock on the door, car was flashing again, so I disconnected the battery to save the brand new battery. In morning reconneced battery lights start flashing nothing from the key, disconned the battery and put a electric heater on the floor by the BCM (passengers center floor board) 20 minutes later it started. Took to dealer told symtoms, they left it outside at about 10df night, they got it to start next morning by wiggling wires at BCM. Replaced BCM been a good car going on a year since.

Manual car I'd try to push start it first, I did it by myself in my younger years with a 1990 nissan sentra for a few weeks before figuring out what was wrong with it.
 
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