so you found a short on the wire to ground? Has the code gone away since finding the wire rubbing on the bell housing. That would cause a low voltage at the solenoid.
I meant to go into all data and shop key today but it slipped my mind today. I am going to set a reminder on my phone and...
not necessarily a short...
there's not really a lot of info to go from here.. so
now If you are talking about some voltage on the ground after the "load" that is a sign of high resistance on the ground wire. more than likely meaning that there is a bad/corroded connector or the mount to ground...
see now, what if you have your car at the shop and they parked the car in gear on the lift.. and there is some kinda Radio Frequency Interference.. car drives off the lift and hurts the mechanic working on it... you're now liable for his injuries and the damage to your car.. and yes it's...
sweet, let's start a check list with locations. This way I can check them off as I go and I can see where I need to go and which ones are worth stealing. :rofl:
Hey Kenny nice to meet you, I'm Kenny. I wouldn't go blue to green though. I was Army for 3 years in the Mos 19D Cavalry scout, Army not a good choice. anyways welcome to the forum, enjoy.
clutch senors are the same thing... neutral safety switch and clutch senors are both safety switches that must be activated in order to start the vehicle, they are a part of the starter's circuit. if an automatic car is not in park or neutral the vehicle should not start and a manual car should...
if the lights will not go off at all even when the switch is thrown, that means there is a short circuit to a power source somewhere in the positive wire any where between the head lights and the switch.