Search results

edited^^^ ---------- Post added at 05:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:51 PM ---------- btw, just change the plugs. those 60's pump a lot of fuel man. i went through plugs every 10k or so with the 60's.

not you lol...just a big percentage of idiots floating around the car scene.

thats not really that rich... should be low 11 high 10 range wot. stop using boxed tunes! every car is different, you need to have someone tune you with hptuners and data log you until it's right. or get dyno tuned. 550 is ridiculous. should be about 200 since it's like 50 bucks to license...

not much if you have a trust fund or uncle sam is spoiling you.

i wouldnt do any nitrous without sleeving the block. we have an open deck block shit cracks easily

i see, so this sounds like a good investment. how about those koni inserts? for example, not that i would do this, but if i were dumb enough to put my old cut springs back on with koni yellows, adjust the dampening correctly for the drop and drive down the highway would they bounce like my...

yep it'll do that

what the hell do they do

you guys suck. he didn't ask about going turbo. here's my favorite combination: 2.8 with 60's, meth injection, 100 octane tune, clutch, ottp rotated mounts, ottp stage 1 axles, dual pass endplate with option b, heat exchanger, adjustable cam gears, shorty header, 3" catless dp, 2.5" catback...

i have a strut tower bar, i'm saying the end links on the stabilizer bar i've seen them come adjustable. i've never even looked into what the hell a stabilizer bar does for your suspension, i just fix it if it looks broken lol.

lololol i was waiting for someone to catch that. yeah anyway, i was wondering about those koni inserts, anyone know where i can get specs on those? what about adjustable stabilizer bar end links? never really understood those either.

i have ground force fronts and some ahem...modified progress rears. (done legit this time). i trashed the coilover rear thing cause one of the struts bent. the progress rears are great since the spring's rate is higher than normal, but my ground force fronts are mooshy and me no likey. i am...

haha i remember trying to point it out to another tech at work. it never happens when you want it to, but always happens when you don't want it to. you can trace it to exactly where the tensioner is. also, if it's been replaced and hasn't been positioned properly, for example if you just tighten...

i love how that driveshaft loop is so well hidden, and the custom headers, engine cradle. it's all really legit work.

the tensioner has been re-designed. like an unspoken recall. and it doesn't stick, like i said it's hydraulic and that initial knocking sound is caused by the oil taking a second or 2 to get up to the head. it may start clicking when your engine is cold because it doesn't function properly with...

the more i look at it the more i realize how legit everything is.

i have em eric. just gimme your old ones we're good.

you sure its not from behind you? im almost positive its the evap system. you'll get a mil light soon if it is. either that or your timing chain is starting to stretch. the tensioner doesnt start to work right til the oil is warm and thin since its hydraulic. are you 5 speed or auto?

call em and find out if you can get them wider

ya they do look pretty rad

blowby doesn't exist thats why we have a pcv system mr. dealership.

what is your problem dude? get outta here your attitude sucks and you're no help.

those are tits. do a slight stretch and some wheel spacers you'll be set.

get me some nos energy drink plz btw you can get like cheap ass fully adjustable coilovers for that car. adjustable control arms and center links are like fuckin dirt cheap

omg ur balts are da same lolz.