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lol ok cool man. sorry i'm just tired and dont feel like explaining things a million times. hope i was helpful.

:facepalm: i am talking about...nevermind. just...forget it.

that's coolant temps, not intake air temps. coolant temps are around 190 on the lnf. 180 on the lsj. idling for a bit or hard driving on a hot day youll see 200-205. any more than that is sorta bad. aluminum heads are known to warp around 250f

coolant temp should not be effected by your heat exchanger, it's a completely seperate cooling system. your intake air temperatures and your heat exhanger coolant temps will be effected. in the long run, your engine will run slightly cooler, but thats not the point of the heat exchanger. more...

if you keep people informed there's no silly questions to be asked! :D

175 is very hot. you are talking about iat2 temps? i hope were not talking about coolant temps cause that's almost irrelevant. your ic coolant should never go past 120f and if you're anywhere above 160f iat2 you should throw that heat exchanger in the garbage.

he's gonna replace his shocks and try to tune his coils a little better. I think that's a good idea.

usmc your car looks dope man

2.8 pulley, 60# injectors = 250 bucks hp tune from someone local = 150 bucks if its any more **** them instant 250whp catless downpipe = 200 bucks should be at 260whp

ill trade you your coilovers for my setup lol. ss/tc shocks, ground force springs, ss/sc rears. all brand new struts/shocks, never even used. ground force springs have maybe 5k on them. they are pretty soft springs, you'll like them if you want a smooth ride. I NEED PLOX WORK WITH ME i'll...

cooper zeon. my personal favorite for the money.

dope

i poisted twice lol. old thread is old

my ottp rotated mount bushings are starting to shit out, and my stage 1 axles are rusty. not cool. but they are aftermarket parts, you can't expect too much

hehe you said big meat

you would need: lsj intake manifold heat exchanger pump tunable ecm from a later model (not sure what's involved in that swap probably jsut some security and re learning) forged pistons (if you want it to last) 60-71lb injectors depending on boost. the project would cost a lottt of...

heat gun...then eraser wheel...then use aftalene to get rid of the residue. compound, polish. that's the right way to do it.

schmidt makes a good wheel, mad expensive though. if you have the dough, you can get nice wheels, if youre looking to spend under a grand for a wheel tire combo it's gonna be the same old low pressure cast ebay wheel. it's a tough subject cause i'm not sure what you're into.

google lol

theyre mad cheap...like 100 a wheel i think. just an idea for ya. tire rack and all that is like the worst place to get wheels. their selection is so useless, i don't know who even buys those things. oh wait...mostly cobalt owners.

those are dooope. i also like the rota drags (work emotion)

i think you should go rota. just sayin.

:facepalm: dude you have 4x100, are you really going to settle with boring wheels? someone just shoot me. i hate owning a cobalt.

good idea, get stanced or get lost!