How To: Adjustable Sway Bar Endlinks

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by ls1fbody, Jan 31, 2010.

  1. ls1fbody

    ls1fbody Full Access Member

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    *Excuse my smashed thumb*

    Start by jacking up the car and removing both front wheels.

    Never support the weight of the car using just the jack, always use jackstands.

    Tools Needed
    19mm wrench
    18mm wrench
    No. 6 Allen Key

    Removal of Stock Endlinks
    The stock enlinks use an 18mm nut to secure them to the strut and swaybar. Remove both left and right side top nuts first. Your sway bar will slowly fall downward, this is fine. Now remove both lower nuts, and remove the stock endlinks. I didn't have any problems removing them, but there are flat spots on the back side of the ball joint where you could use a thin 16mm wrench or needle nose vice grips if you have an issue with the threaded shaft spinning.
    [​IMG]

    Setting up your Powergrid Adjustable Links
    The length at which you set your endlinks is not super critical on a street driven car as long as both sides are set to equal lengths. I found it easiest to just make them as short as possible. After adjustments and tightening down the jamb nuts, mine are 9.5" from the center of each ball joint. The exposed bronze colored rob is 5.5"

    Installing Powergrid Endlinks
    Start by installing the lower end of both left and right links first. I slipped a 19mm box end wrench over the nut, then inserted the no. 6 allen key into the threaded shaft of the ball joint to keep it from spinning. After it is tightened, it will look like this:
    [​IMG]
    Make sure that the washer is between the nut and the swaybar.

    Next, install the top nut of the swaybar link.
    [​IMG]

    I only hand tightened each side to make sure the lengths matched and allowed the swaybar to be installed without a preload.

    Next I tightened the top bolt using the same no. 6 allen key and 19mm box wrench.
    [​IMG]

    I started on the drivers side, but it really doesn't make much of a difference.

    Make a second pass over all of the nuts to ensure they are tight, and now you are done.
    [​IMG]

    Replace the wheels, lower the car down off the jackstands, and enjoy your clunk-free front end :)
     
  2. ff_drift_lol

    ff_drift_lol Full Access Member

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    great how-to. where'd you score those? and did you polish your control arms?
     
  3. ls1fbody

    ls1fbody Full Access Member

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    OTTP Sells them.

    Yep, hand polished, and i removed the casting lines, it was a pain in the ass.
     
  4. cobalt123

    cobalt123 Platinum Member

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    [/COLOR]nice write up, love the polished control arms
     
  5. ls1fbody

    ls1fbody Full Access Member

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    haha, it's easy to keep it clean in California, no snow, no dirt. Also, it helps that i have put about 18,000miles on it since March 2007 :lol:
     
  6. cobalt123

    cobalt123 Platinum Member

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    oh lol here in texas there is dirt everywhere my poor car needs to be cleaned...image that the first time i changed the cabin air filter was 2 weeks ago and over 78xxx miles on the car o_O
     
  7. ls1fbody

    ls1fbody Full Access Member

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    Haha, i've changed mine twice. We do have salty ocean air here, and in the spring/fall we get a lot of fog, this results in miracle mold on the filter, and the car stinks ahah.
     
  8. ff_drift_lol

    ff_drift_lol Full Access Member

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    that looks crazy man nice job
     
  9. USMCFieldMP

    USMCFieldMP Full Access Member

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    I will be swapping these out later this month. :)

    Mine stock ones are TOASTED.
     
  10. mrsilent13

    mrsilent13 Full Access Member

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    nice ill be doing these soon....i just installed f&r eibach sway bars...one of my endlinks is torn...but i made it work for now
     

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