Jn2
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well lets begin with the tools you need:
pliers(for opening the pinch type clamps)
Dexcool
vulcan turbo coolant tank
vulcan turbo radiator tee *optional*
small saw(if you wanna avoid taking out the fuzebox)
1.5" clamps
push twist style cap(autozone has them)
step1:
cut the tab that the fuse box has, you'll see it connected to the threaded stud that hold the coolant tank, unfortunantly i could not find a way to take the original tank out w/out cutting that thing off, since its over the tanks tab, it had to come off, so i cut it off, make a clean cut and no one will ever notice its gone(or you could remove the fuse box to get the tank out)
step 2:
undo the hose at the top of the tank, remove it, some coolant might spew out, thats fine, throw it out of the way for now
step 3:
pull the tank upwards, the only thing holding it in will the 3/4" hose at the bottom, and the tab on the right, twist and turn until that tab lets go, i broke mine because i didn't have patience for it hahaha
step 4:
once that tank is no longer held in, remove the clamp from the hose, move it downward, and get ready for some fast action, as u pull it off tilt the tank so all the coolant from thr tank doesn't spill everywhere and make a giant mess; once its out, you can leave it on its side and sit it somewhere out of the way
step 5:
go to the lower radiator hose; undo the pinch clamp holding the 3/4" hose to the plastic tee, move it upwards on the hose, once its off; slide the hose off, and take it off the car
step 6:
connect the hose you just took out to the tank, put the clamp on it, now take the tank and slide it into place, it will be a tight fit, a really tight ass fit, and it wont drop it, you have to in at angle, remember to slide the hose in under the fuse box, than put put the tank in, it should line up with the previous tab and the stud fine, the fuse box will put up a fight and wont wanna let you put it in, fight with it for a while and it will drop in fine, and there wont be any play room left
step 7:
undo the pinch clamps holding the plastic lower radiator hose tee; remove the tee and throw this bitch away hahahaha
step 8:
take your new aluminum tee, with your finger get some coolant and spread it over the 1.5" tubes outer diameter, this is used for lubrication to slide it on, the tee is slightly bigger than the hose to allow better seal w/out the lip, so once u twist it into the hose that goes to the termastat housing push it in fast, make sure the tee is facing towards the tank, now do the same to the other side
step 9:
you will take you 1.5" worm drive clamps and tighten them over the new tee, the old pinch type ones wont be big enough to tighten on them, so put these away somewhere, and tighten them with the worm clamps(the 3/4" clamps still work fine)
step 10:
now that everything is connected, go back and double check it all again, make sure there is no kinks in the hose going form the tee to the tank, make sure all the clamps are on, put the hose from the head back on
step 11:
refill your system with coolant, there is no level display on this one, so just fill it to half way, im sure u can eye ball 1/2 way
once you'll done this, wait for all the bubbles to be worked out the sytem, turn the car on, and leave the cap off; wait a good 5 mins, than put the cap on
AND NOW YOUR READY TO GO!
PICS:
i did not include these during the how to as i made the how to w/out taking pics of the process but i got pics of where everything is so u see what the finished result looks like
here you see the general area where most of the work will be done
here is a closer view of the new tee in place, and you see which clamps go where
as you can see, i have the hose at the top leading into the fenderwell right below it, its a good way to keep hoses looking neat
thats what the cap looks like for those who dont know
VVV u can see where the level sensor on some cobalts are located, not all cobalts have them, mine has the spot at the bottom for it, but its closed...please check your tank before ordering, if you have one, u can either bypass it, or order a universal one to wire in its place(which can be done thru our site)
here you see the stock tank that came off my car, it has 41k miles on it, it has been flushed once before this, and it is nasty looking, for someone wanting to get their engine bay looking good...does that look good to you
**tank pictured was the prototype tank, the tab at the top has been placed in correct location for all production models, and the brass fitting u see tap'd directly on the tank now has a bung for you to thread in your own fitting
pliers(for opening the pinch type clamps)
Dexcool
vulcan turbo coolant tank
vulcan turbo radiator tee *optional*
small saw(if you wanna avoid taking out the fuzebox)
1.5" clamps
push twist style cap(autozone has them)
step1:
cut the tab that the fuse box has, you'll see it connected to the threaded stud that hold the coolant tank, unfortunantly i could not find a way to take the original tank out w/out cutting that thing off, since its over the tanks tab, it had to come off, so i cut it off, make a clean cut and no one will ever notice its gone(or you could remove the fuse box to get the tank out)
step 2:
undo the hose at the top of the tank, remove it, some coolant might spew out, thats fine, throw it out of the way for now
step 3:
pull the tank upwards, the only thing holding it in will the 3/4" hose at the bottom, and the tab on the right, twist and turn until that tab lets go, i broke mine because i didn't have patience for it hahaha
step 4:
once that tank is no longer held in, remove the clamp from the hose, move it downward, and get ready for some fast action, as u pull it off tilt the tank so all the coolant from thr tank doesn't spill everywhere and make a giant mess; once its out, you can leave it on its side and sit it somewhere out of the way
step 5:
go to the lower radiator hose; undo the pinch clamp holding the 3/4" hose to the plastic tee, move it upwards on the hose, once its off; slide the hose off, and take it off the car
step 6:
connect the hose you just took out to the tank, put the clamp on it, now take the tank and slide it into place, it will be a tight fit, a really tight ass fit, and it wont drop it, you have to in at angle, remember to slide the hose in under the fuse box, than put put the tank in, it should line up with the previous tab and the stud fine, the fuse box will put up a fight and wont wanna let you put it in, fight with it for a while and it will drop in fine, and there wont be any play room left
step 7:
undo the pinch clamps holding the plastic lower radiator hose tee; remove the tee and throw this bitch away hahahaha
step 8:
take your new aluminum tee, with your finger get some coolant and spread it over the 1.5" tubes outer diameter, this is used for lubrication to slide it on, the tee is slightly bigger than the hose to allow better seal w/out the lip, so once u twist it into the hose that goes to the termastat housing push it in fast, make sure the tee is facing towards the tank, now do the same to the other side
step 9:
you will take you 1.5" worm drive clamps and tighten them over the new tee, the old pinch type ones wont be big enough to tighten on them, so put these away somewhere, and tighten them with the worm clamps(the 3/4" clamps still work fine)
step 10:
now that everything is connected, go back and double check it all again, make sure there is no kinks in the hose going form the tee to the tank, make sure all the clamps are on, put the hose from the head back on
step 11:
refill your system with coolant, there is no level display on this one, so just fill it to half way, im sure u can eye ball 1/2 way
once you'll done this, wait for all the bubbles to be worked out the sytem, turn the car on, and leave the cap off; wait a good 5 mins, than put the cap onAND NOW YOUR READY TO GO!
PICS:
i did not include these during the how to as i made the how to w/out taking pics of the process but i got pics of where everything is so u see what the finished result looks like
here you see the general area where most of the work will be done
here is a closer view of the new tee in place, and you see which clamps go where
as you can see, i have the hose at the top leading into the fenderwell right below it, its a good way to keep hoses looking neat
thats what the cap looks like for those who dont know
VVV u can see where the level sensor on some cobalts are located, not all cobalts have them, mine has the spot at the bottom for it, but its closed...please check your tank before ordering, if you have one, u can either bypass it, or order a universal one to wire in its place(which can be done thru our site)
here you see the stock tank that came off my car, it has 41k miles on it, it has been flushed once before this, and it is nasty looking, for someone wanting to get their engine bay looking good...does that look good to you
**tank pictured was the prototype tank, the tab at the top has been placed in correct location for all production models, and the brass fitting u see tap'd directly on the tank now has a bung for you to thread in your own fitting
