Intake Information

Discussion in 'Performance' started by ionit3, Jul 23, 2009.

  1. ionit3

    ionit3 Platinum Member

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    Jul 18, 2009
    o town fl
    everything copied from gord888v2
    Cold-Air Intakes
    Referenced from Wikipedia: Click here for the full article

    A cold air intake is a system used to bring down the temperature of the air going into a car for the purpose of increasing the power of the internal-combustion engine. A secondary goal is to increase the appeal of a car by changing the appearance of a car's engine bay and creating an attractive intake noise. These aftermarket parts come in many different colors and many different sizes, and are an inexpensive way to increase performance.

    Aftermarket company, K&N Engineering first offered air intake systems in the late 1980s. Those intakes consisted of rotationally-molded plastic intake tubes and a conical, cotton gauze air filter. In the late 1990s a proliferation of intake manufacturers such as Injen, AEM, Airaid and Volant entered the fray. In addition, oversea manufacturers imported their designs lending to the popularity of Japan domestic market (JDM) air intakes in sport compact markets. K&N and many of the other intake companies now offer intake systems in metal tube designs, allowing a greater degree of customization (the tubes can be powder-coated or painted to match a vehicle).

    All cold air intakes operate on the principle of increasing the amount of oxygen available for combustion with fuel. Because cooler air has more density for a given volume, cold air intakes generally work by providing cooler air from outside the hot engine bay. However, the term "cold air intake" is often used to describe other methods of increasing oxygen to an engine, which may even increase the temperature of the air coming into an engine.

    Some strategies used in designing cold-air intakes are:

    * increasing the diameter of the air intake, allowing increased airflow.
    * smoothing the interior of the intake to reduce air resistance.
    * providing a more direct route to the air intake.
    * tuning the length of the intake to provide the most airflow at certain RPMs.
    * using a more efficient, less restricting air filter

    Intake systems come in many different styles and can be constructed from plastic, metal, rubber (silicone) or composite materials (fiberglass, carbon fiber or kevlar). Due to the limited time air actually remains inside the intake tubing, the materials often do not impact a kit's ability to deliver cool air.

    The most basic cold air intake replaces the stock airbox with a short metal or plastic tube leading to a conical air filter, called a Short ram air intake. The power gained by this method can vary depending on how restrictive the factory airbox is. The placement of the filter is usually directly in the engine compartment. The overall benefits depend on the specific application. Power may be lost at certain engine speeds, only to be gained at others. Because of the increased airflow and reduced covering, intake noise is usually increased. This effect is usually amplified on applications where a resonator, a part intended to reduce intake noise on some vehicles is replaced by the intake.

    Better designed intakes use heat shields to isolate the air filter from the rest of the engine compartment, providing cooler air from the front or side of the engine bay. Carbon fiber can be used for the piping instead of metal, lowering weight and insulating the air from the engine bay in some cases. Carbon fiber and other advanced composites (such as Kevlar) come at significant costs and are often more aesthetic rather than functional (unless the application is a serious race vehicle).

    The most extreme designs, sometimes referred to as Complete Cold Air (CCA) intakes, route air from outside the engine bay, usually from the wheel wells (although an extremely poor choice, as the air pressure is low), front grill (high air pressure), or a hood scoop (moderate air pressure). The intake can be placed such that the forward motion of the car pressurises the air coming in, creating a ram-air intake. These intakes often require additional modifications and can require body modifications or replacement panels, such as a replacement "ram air-style" hood. Complete Cold Air intakes are able to convert to short ram intakes. During the winter season, you can convert your cold air into a short ram intake.

    The best cold-air intakes are optimized for a specific engine application, providing increased airflow at ambient temperature and raising power at all engine speeds. However custom air intakes can be created using mandrel bent air intake tubes and aftermarket air filters if there is not currently an air intake on the market for your car or truck.

    When using a cold air intake, there is a potential risk when driving in the rain. This is often referred to as "hydrolock", and according to the automotive portal, "Say it's raining cats and dogs and you're out for a spin in your car. Normally you'd love to rip through puddles without thinking twice, but because your engine is now getting air from inside your bumper you have to be careful. If your engine manages to suck up any amount of water through the intake and into the engine you will probably have little to no horsepower left. In more extreme cases, the water brought into the engine through the intake can actually break connecting rods in the pistons, as water will not compress at all, unlike air. In other words, be careful." So, it is important to take the necessary precautions when using a cold air intake so you do not end up getting water in your engine. This may include installing a water shield in your intake or not driving in the rain at all. It is also notable that less damage will occur from water getting in the engine on a rotary engine car, as opposed to a piston engine car. Some cold air intake manufacturers now include a built in hydro-shield, which is a piece of plastic that blocks the air filter from water.

    More and more cold air intake manufacturers make air bypass valves. An air bypass valve is an open filtered spacer that is positioned more into the engine bay between two connected pieces of the cold air intake assembly. This prevents hydro locking by providing an alternate route for air to come in, thus eliminating the vacuum that causes water to be sucked in from a puddle. It is argued that this reduces power, but in actuality it provides more surface area for air to come into the engine when the driver mashes the pedal. When driving moderately the suction caused by the engine is not enough to activate the air bypass valve.
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2009
  2. ionit3

    ionit3 Platinum Member

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    Jul 18, 2009
    o town fl
    Resonant Air Boxes: Theory and Application
    Referenced from Click here for the full article

    Motorcycles have had air boxes holding their air filters for decades. However, in the last couple of decades the purpose of these air boxes has changed quite dramatically.

    Originally the air box was just there to keep flying dirt, rain, and bugs from directly hitting the air cleaner. They were simply an attempt to keep the air cleaner a little cleaner a little longer.

    In the '70s, the US government started making noise regulations tighter. At some point, the manufacturers realized that the noise from the air intake was part of their problem. They started to look for ways to muffle not only the exhaust, but the intake roar too. Sound waves are pressure pulses in the air. Pistons pull in air on their intake stroke, creating a low pressure pulse in the air box. Then on the compression, power, and exhaust strokes the intake valve is closed and the air box is free to return to atmospheric pressure. These alternating low pressure and normal pressure pulses are sound waves. The manufacturers needed some way to dampen them out.

    Your exhaust mufflers are made of a series of open chambers connected to each other by tubes. The exhaust pressure pulses get caught in the chambers and bounce around in them, then have to leak out relatively slowly through the tubes. The math that governs mufflers can also be applied to air boxes: you need a big chamber to hold a bunch of air, and an inlet tube to let air in at a controlled rate.

    The air in a box is compressible, so a box is the acoustic analog of a capacitor or spring. Air has mass - about 1kg / cubic meter, about 2 pounds per cubic yard. In a tube, the air moves back and forth as a slug, as long as the frequency of the movement is small compared to (tube length / speed of sound). So, at low frequencies a tube is a mass term. Since the speed of sound is about 1000 feet per second, a foot long tube is equivalent to 1 khz. 10,000 rpm is 160 pulses per second on a V-Twin, so "low frequency" clearly applies on an air box for any snorkel shorter than about 6 feet long. A wire screen is the acoustic analog of a resistor. It slows air motion, converting the energy into heat. The combination of a box and tube is a system with a resonance. Exactly as a child's swing has a resonant frequency, exactly as a ported speaker enclosure has a resonant frequency, so does your air box.

    A system at resonance is nearly perfect - there are small frictional losses in any system, but at resonance these are the only losses. Imagine pushing a child on a swing - it takes very little energy to keep her going at the natural frequency of the swing, just a little push each swing is enough. The only thing slowing her down is air resistance and a little friction in the chains. So at resonance, air flows through a tuned air box almost without resistance. This is as close as we can get to a superconductor of air.

    A modern engine with valve overlap will naturally have a dip in the torque at about a third to a half the red line rpm. If the air box is tuned to have minimum resistance to air flow at this rpm, the dip in the torque curve will be partially filled in by the ease of pulling air into the engine.

    So, your air box is most likely designed to add horsepower in the mid-range. The air box will have little or no effect on peak hp.

    Years ago, before airboxes were designed as resonant systems, it used to be popular to cut additional holes in the air box to allow more air flow for high rpm. This is no longer a good idea. Modern air boxes can flow much more air than the engine will ever use. Modern engines have throttle bodies or carburetors with throats that are typically about 45mm in diameter, about 16 in area. The inlet snorkel to a modern air box will be roughly 300 to 800 - much larger than the throttle body or carburetor throat. The idea that the snorkel makes for a significant impediment to air flow into the engine is questionable at best. Drilling holes to let in more air is exactly equivalent to drilling holes in your speaker cabinets to let out more sound. Removing the snorkel from your air box is the exact same thing as removing the port in your speakers, the tube that's carefully engineered to have just the right diameter and length to reinforce the bass on your speakers at low frequencies. By altering your air box in any significant fashion, you're most likely going to cost yourself three to five hp in the mid range, and gain nothing measurable at high rpms.

    Here, from first principles we'll develop the theory of how an air box and an inlet tube form a coupled spring- mass system with a resonant frequency.

    air box volume = V

    inlet pipe = area * length = A * L

    Air Mass = 1.25g / 1000 cc

    Atmospheric Pressure = 104kg / cm sec2

    PV = nkT (Ideal Gas Law)

    If the air in the inlet tube moves X cm into the air box, then the volume of air inside the air box changes to:

    V' = V + AX

    Since Boltzman's constant and the air box volume don't change, that leaves only the temperature and the pressure. The gamma for air is 1.4, so

    T' / T = (V' / V)^.4

    T' / T = (1 + AX/V)^.4

    We'll presume AX/V is small, so (1 + AX/V)^.4 = 1 + .4AX/V

    The number of atoms in the air box changes to n' = (1 + AX/V)n. So, the new pressure is:

    P'V = (1+AX/V) nk (1+.4AX/V) T

    P' = (1 + AX/V) (1 + .4AX/V) P

    P' = (1 + 1.4 AX/V) P

    Now we can find the spring constant of the air box, K:

    Force = Pressure*Area = Kx

    Kx = 1.4 AX/V * A * 104 kg cm / sec2

    K = AA/V * 146 kg / sec2

    The mass of air in the inlet tube is

    M = AL * 1.25g / 1000

    The resonant frequency w, in radians per second, of a spring-mass system is:

    w = sqrt( K/M )
    = sqrt( AA/V * 146 kg / sec2 * 1000 / 1.25g AL )
    = sqrt( A/VL * 146*1000*1000 / 1.25 sec2 )
    = 1000 sqrt( 116.5 A/VL ) / sec

    The resonant frequency is w / 2pi, and the resonant rpm is 30 * number of cylinders * f. For a V-twin, rpm = 60 * f.

    f = w / 2pi = 160 sqrt( 116.5 A / VL )

    resonant rpm = 4775 sqrt( 116.5 A / VL ) (single cylinder)

    resonant rpm = 9550 sqrt( 116.5 A / VL ) (V-twin)

    resonant rpm = 19100 sqrt( 116.5 A / VL ) (4 cylinder)

    Here we'll examine a particular design, and see if we can understand the purpose of the design.

    On the Suzuki V-Strom, the air box holds approximately 8 liters, about 8000 ccs. There's an inlet pipe which has a 90 degree bend in it. The two sides, inner and outer, differ in length a bit. We'll use their average, the centerline distance, as the length of the pipe. The pipe opening is about 200 square centimeters, and the length is about 20cm. Fortunately, as all these numbers appear inside a square root, our results will not depend on highly accurate measurements. Of course, if you're designing an air box you would want to be quite precise, but we're just trying to understand an existing design, so if we're off by a few percent it won't really matter. We'll also concern ourselves with the flow through the pipe and see if the mach number of the airflow is low enough to ensure linearity.

    At 12,000 rpm, the V-Strom's 1 liter motor is pumping 6,000 liters per minute, 100 liters per second. The V- Strom inlet snorkel has an opening of about 200 cm2. 100 liters per second is a column of air 1000 cm 2 wide by 10 meters long, or 200 cm 2 * 50 meters long, so apparently the peak velocity through the inlet tube is less than 50 meters per second. The speed of sound at sea level is about 340 meters per second, so this is about mach .14.

    Whenever air flows past something, like the walls of the inlet snorkel, the air touching the walls will stick to the walls and not flow. The air very close to the stuck air will flow, but sluggishly because the nearby air isn't moving. Thus there will be a region of air right next to the tube walls which does not flow easily. This area is called the Poisson stagnation region, named after the French physicist who first described it mathematically. The faster you try to flow air through the tube, the thicker the stagnation region gets. In a narrow tube at extremely high flow rates, the stagnation regions can grow to pretty much fill the tube and the flow through the tube can get slowed quite dramatically. However, mach .14 is not a very high flow rate. This low peak velocity guarantees the Poisson stagnation region on the tube walls will remain thin, and the tube will be substantially open for free flow. We've satisfied the engineers's prayer "Please, God, let it be linear."

    The resonant rpm will be 9550 * sqrt( 116.5 A / VL ) = 9550 * sqrt( 116.5*200 / 8000*20 ) = 9550 * sqrt ( 116.5 / 800 ) = 9550 * .38 = 3650 rpm

    This number is consistent with the torque dip in a 10,000 rpm v-twin with valve overlap. Remember, we only estimated the volume of the air box and the length and width of the snorkel, so 3650 rpm is just an estimate and is most likely off by a few hundred rpm. Apparently the Suzuki engineers designed an air box which would resonate at the torque dip, thereby giving essentially frictionless airflow at the rpm where the engine was having the most trouble making torque.

    If you decided to make substantial modifications to your engine, like high compression pistons, new cam shafts, and re-mapped ignition and fuel injection, you would very likely change the rpm at which the mid-range torque dip happens. In this case, if you can measure the new rpm on a dyno, you could use this information and our formula to decide on a new snorkel length to change the air box resonance to match the new torque dip.
  3. ionit3

    ionit3 Platinum Member

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    o town fl
    Looking For A Miracle: We Test Automotive 'Fuel Savers'
    Referenced from Popular Mechanics: Click here for the full article

    Vortex Generators
    These devices, which are usually installed on the upstream side of the mass airflow (MAF) sensor, use stationary vanes or, on some devices, spinning blades to make the inlet air between the air cleaner and intake manifold whirl around in a mini-tornado. This vortex supposedly mixes fuel more thoroughly with air, which means the fuel will, theoretically, burn more completely in the combustion chamber. Trouble is, there's a lot of intake tract downstream from these devices designed to maximize a smooth airflow. Turbulence, coupled with the restricted airflow caused by the device, can only reduce the amount of air sucked into the manifold. Less air means less power.
    Again, we tested two devices. The TornadoFuelSaver is a nicely made stainless steel contraption, available in an assortment of sizes to fit most vehicles. We installed it on our truck's intake tract immediately upstream of the MAF sensor. We purchased the second device, the Intake Twister, on eBay. It was crudely handmade from sheet-aluminum flashing and pop rivets. It looked like something we could make in about 10 minutes from an old soda can. The staff at UTI was reluctant to install it: The bent sheetmetal vanes looked as if they might break off and be digested by the engine. The device is one-size-fits-all, and is simply bent into a curl to insert it into the intake duct.

    The Dyno
    Both devices reduced peak horsepower by more than 10 percent. The Intake Twister increased fuel consumption by about 20 percent; the TornadoFuelSaver provided no significant change.

    TornadoFuelSaver:, $70
    They Claim: "... an increase in gas mileage--up to 28%!!!" "Dynometer [sic] testing demonstrates an increase of 4-13 horsepower."
    Bottom Line: Normally, we want less turbulence in the intake, not more.

    Intake Twister: eBay, $20
    They Claim: "Increase your gas mileage buy [sic] 5-10 mpg and increase your hp by up to +10 hp." "Spreads the gas out to get a full combustion."
    Bottom Line: Doesn't work and could fail and damage expensive parts.
  4. ionit3

    ionit3 Platinum Member

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    Jul 18, 2009
    o town fl
    A breadth of breathers: cold air intake systems are an inexpensive and easy-to-install performance upgrade
    Referenced from Click here for the full article

    Low investments and great returns are not only fundamental principles of business, but a great way to look at modifications that enhance vehicle performance.

    And if it's a low-stress/relatively low-cost 3-10 horsepower bump that you're seeking, look no further than air intake systems. With prices anywhere from around $300-$500, custom air intakes provide a noticeable horsepower increase without breaking the bank. There is also the matter of easy installation.

    While bolting on a turbo kit or tinkering with an ECU is likely work for a professional, most people with even a hint of do-it-yourself ethos can complete an intake installation in (depending on the car/system) 45-90 minutes.

    Most cold-air intake systems come in four main pieces. There are two mandrel-bent aluminum pipings, one billet-aluminum MAF adaptor and one high-flow filter. Par for the course--results tend to add from 3 to 5 horsepower.

    The frequency of the sound wave generated by an intake system varies with it's length--longer systems tend to generate lower frequency waves. With traditional cold air intakes, as the RPM increases, inlet valve opening increases while the inlet tract length remains constant. Over a period of time, the increasing frequency of the inlet valve and the inlet system resonance become out of phase with each other and the effect of using sound pressure to promote cylinder filling declines.

    Another iteration of this system isn't a cold-air intake but simply an induction system. While most cold-air intakes feature bent and snaked pipes, designed to both fit into the desired area of the engine and also to promote further cooling of the air as it has a longer distance to travel, typical induction systems use a straighter but binary pipe design and rely heavily on placement in the engine's coolest spots.

    In the case of AEM's V2 Induction system, sound is a key issue. Not only because some customers are not only looking for increased performance out of an air filter but are also looking to make their intake/exhaust noise a signature of their cars. While appeasing customer wants is crucial to any company, the V2 induction system is using sound waves to facilitate performance.

    The V2 features a dual chamber design which was instituted to provide multiple frequency sound waves to help charge the cylinders with air in the upper RPM ranges, where cold-air intakes can begin to go out of phase. In V2 design, the primary pipe is usually smaller in diameter but longer than the secondary pipe. This difference in shape/size helps to create lower frequency in the inlet tract that match at lower RPM while the shorter secondary pipe helps to facilitate cylinder filling in the higher RPM.

    Yet another aftermarket air-intake choice is the short ram system. Essentially a simpler version of the cold-air intake, short rams rely heavily on engine placement for cooler air. And while not as technically advanced, sources at AEM say in certain applications the short rams work better than intakes. The examples sighted were Saturn/Pontiac Sunfire type vehicles with normally aspirated four cylinders. However, AEM does contend that its short ram system works best for the Mitsubishi Evo VIII.

    The following commentary comes from the moderator of a popular tuner message board when asked about cold-air intakes versus short rams:

    "Trouble with short rams is that, while they have less restriction due to their short length, they often wind up sucking hot air once the engine warms up, robbing you of horsepower. The sound is likely to be virtually identical as it's mostly caused by having a cone filter instead of a silenced airbox."

    Because of the growing popularity of the intake upgrade, the number of intake choices has skyrocketed, as have the number of vehicles these kits are made for. Companies who had spent their time worrying about providing intakes for snappy little four bangers are also cranking out bigger systems to facilitate customers now seeking a similar upgrade for their SUVs.

    Companies on the forefront of these battles include AEM as well as K&N Filters. Both are heavy players in the intake game and neither is looking past the SUV market. Systems designed for SUV use tend to feature a much bigger intake filter (which are largely cone shaped) but are also making use of heat shields.

    It doesn't stop there. There are also custom intakes available for hybrids. AEM currently markets a system for those doing Honda engine swaps. And it's only a matter of time before the other hybrids get some help with their breathing. It's only fair ... everybody else has one.

    Air Intake Systems Research Guide
    Referenced from Click here for the full article

    What can a new air intake do for my vehicle?
    Want to squeeze every bit of power out of your vehicle's engine? Grabbing a high-performance air intake is the quick and easy route to several benefits, including:

    * An instant increase in horsepower
    * A noticeable boost to your throttle response
    * Improved fuel economy
    * A long-life, washable performance air filter
    * Specialized engineering that's fine-tuned to your specific vehicle
    * Straightforward, simple installation virtually anyone can complete

    How it works: the basics of performance air intakes
    Your engine relies on a balanced mixture of fuel and air for combustion. Currently, your vehicle draws air through the original manufacturer's intake tube and air box, which is typically loaded with a disposable paper air filter. Automakers design your vehicle's intake tube to be the quietest possible unit that can fit in your engine compartment.

    While reduced engine noise is of benefit to you, it comes from an intake tube with multiple turns and bends. The result is a drop in the volume of air delivered to the combustion chamber. And, because your stock intake system completely confines the air box in your engine compartment, the air is usually hot when taken in. This combination of limited and warmer air causes fuel-rich combustion mixtures that don't burn at maximum power efficiency.

    Performance air intake kits solve a few of these problems in one impressive unit. First, a performance air intake replaces your stock intake tube with a wider pipe that has fewer bends. The result is a higher volume of air that flows more freely, filling your combustion chamber with more oxygen molecules for igniting fuel at balanced, efficient mixtures that maximize power.

    Cold air intakeCold air intake kits models also relocate the air box outside the engine compartment, where cooler air can be sucked in by the air filter. The typical relocation spot for a cold air intake's air box is in the upper wheel well above the tire. Taking in cooler air for combustion means an air mixture that's denser with oxygen molecules for a better burn and ultimately more power.

    Not all performance intakes are cold air intakes that move the air box and/or filter. In general, manufacturers test both types of performance intakes on a vehicle to see if there's a significant benefit to relocating the air box.

    A guide to the horsepower increase from a performance air intake
    As your new performance intake draws in a higher volume of air which may be much cooler, your engine can breathe easier than with a limiting stock system. With your combustion chamber filled by cooler, oxygen-rich air, fuel burns at a more efficient mixture. You get more power out of every drop of fuel when it's combined with the right amount of air.

    With more air in the chamber, you can also burn more fuel than before. That's how a performance intake puts power at the pedal for you: reducing air temperatures, balancing fuel mixtures and providing more air for combustion.

    How big will your horsepower increase be? That's the $64 million question. Horsepower increases provided by performance air intakes vary by vehicle, engine size, other installed performance upgrades and more. The typical horsepower increase advertised by air intake manufacturers is 5-10 hp. But, most of these companies, including K&N, Injen and Airaid, like to under promise and over deliver. You may experience a bigger or smaller increase.

    Quick reference: performance air intakes and boosted throttle response
    With more air and cooler air ready and waiting for combustion, your engine's response at stoplights and freeway onramps quickens. Stock intakes often deliver warmer, fuel-rich combustion mixtures that cause your engine to lose power and responsiveness while running hotter and more sluggishly.

    The difference in responsiveness isn't just noticeable; you can literally feel it in the seat of your pants. With a free-breathing intake system attached to your throttle body, your engine is literally inviting you to punch it.
  5. ionit3

    ionit3 Platinum Member

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    Jul 18, 2009
    o town fl
    A quick guide to increased fuel economy with a performance air intake
    You're probably guessing that extra power, cooler temperatures and improved gas mileage can't all come from the same product. Guess again! Performance air intake kits can help your fuel economy in this wallet-gouging, price-per-gallon era by helping your air to fuel ratio get in line. Because you're getting more power from every drop by burning more efficiently, your engine uses less fuel at all times - city or highway. On average, drivers will see a 1-2mpg improvement.

    There's a catch, though. Many drivers trade their limiting air intake for a performance air intake and can't resist using every bit of the horsepower and throttle gains. They'll drive like mad to the grocery store. They might peel-out at stoplights. Or even race the cops. It's called hard driving, and it's the fastest way to burn-up the gas mileage improvements provided by a performance air intake. Your best bet is to keep your driving habits relatively unchanged, enjoy the extra power at the pedal, and collect on the gas mileage savings.

    For even greater engine efficiency and energy, match your new intake with a performance exhaust system and a performance chip. Youll go flying past the pump with this trio of power-packed accessories.

    The basics of your air intake's performance filter
    The heart of an air intake system is the performance air filter. At first glance, you'll notice just how much different it looks than your original paper filter. Typically, performance air intake kits employ a conical filter with many grooves and folds. Though this design appears to be smaller than your paper filter, it actually has more surface area for drawing in air from all directions. And, the increased surface area provides extra places for trapping dirt.

    Performance air filters put paper disposable filters to shame with their dirt-trapping power. Beyond extra surface area, a performance filter is oiled to catch the dirt much better than paper. Plus, performance filters employ multiple layers of cloth material that allow the filter to breathe much better than paper - even after trapping an abundance of dirt in the oiled layers.

    The result is a higher volume of cleaner air than restrictive paper filters can provide. And, as we learned earlier, more air and cleaner air means extra power, improved acceleration and better gas mileage.

    Beyond just these benefits, performance air filters are completely reusable. Stock paper air filters have to be tossed for a new one about every 15,000 miles, while your performance air filter needs cleaning just every 30,000 - 50,000 miles. All you have to do is wash the filter, re-oil and reinstall. You can pick up air filter cleaning kits from all the major intake makers, such as AFE, AEM and True Flow.

    Warranties and guarantees on performance air filters vary by manufacturer, but it's safe to say the filter will outlive your car. Some of our performance air intakes showcase filters that are guaranteed for 1,000,000 miles! K&N, for example, is legendary for their warranty and durability.
    A guide to the expert engineering of an air intake system
    Forget about cheap infomercial products claiming to boost your horsepower or save gas. AutoAnything's performance air intakes boast the time, care and expertise of precise engineering to maximize the potential of your engine. Companies like Airaid, Injen and True Flow do not earn world-class reputations by crafting flimsy intakes.

    This isn't a piece of drainage pipe with a filter on the end. Air intake systems employ specially-shaped intake tubes designed to straighten airflow as much as possible while looking great in your engine compartment. These pipes are typically mandrel-bent, a process that doesn't crimp the pipe diameter at the bend.

    Special care is given to locating the intake tube, air box and filter in the position that best fosters maximum performance. The materials used are also selected with optimum engine conditions in mind.

    The fundamentals of installing a performance air intake on your vehicle
    Not only is a performance air intake one of the most essential upgrades to your vehicle, it happens to be one of the easiest additions to install. With little more than a common socket set, a couple of screwdrivers and half an hour's time, you can have your new air intake in place and ready to roar.

    Detailed instructions are included with every intake kit. These instructions go through the simple process of removing your stock intake system (including the tube and air box), and installing the new air intake in just a few minutes to stock mounting positions. No cutting, drilling or other modifications are required. What you do with your limiting stock intake next is, well, up to you.

    Key information: performance air intakes, original warranties and street legal use
    Air intake manufacturers, including K&N, S&B and Injen, run their products through the rigors of earning smog-legal distinction. Most manufacturers design their air intakes to earn C.A.R.B. certification. This certificate means your air intake is compliant with the toughest smog laws in the land: California's.

    A performance intake won't cause you to fail smog, and installing one won't void your vehicle's warranty. Under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, dealerships cannot deny you warranty service on your vehicle unless they can directly prove the aftermarket part (in this case, an air intake) is the cause of damage to your engine - a highly unlikely scenario. In fact, dealerships carry both performance filters and intakes, and may even try to up-sell you on either item when you're shopping for a vehicle.

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