Rear defrost inoperative

wehan

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Can't get my rear defrost to work. When I press the button I hear a click but the lights don't dim like they used to and the frost remains on the rear window no matter how long the rear defrost is on. I get a very faint glow from my led test probe in the rear window, I also get this faint glow at the under hood fuse. Any thoughts as to where to start checking?
 

Bass_Waves

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So its either lacking power or ground. Also I think the defrost is low temp. Have you checked the fuse first?
 

YelloEye

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I'll test voltage on mine later today. But my lights don't dim when turned on and it works fine.
 

wehan

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The fuse is good, when I pull the fuse and test probe the contact to for the fuse I get a very faint light in the probe. I believe it isn't getting adequate power before the fuse (I'm checking at the big square 40a under the hood) I switched out relays and nothing.
 

wehan

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Ill have to go check, been having this problem for 2 years and I just now have time to mess with it. My headlights would dim know a split second and then the engine/alternator would react accordingly. Now I get nothing. 99% sure there is a bad connection or damaged wire but not sure where to look
 

Bass_Waves

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U know what. The redline did that crap. I replaced the power steering motor. Problem went away. Check the EPs fuse in the engine bay. Don't ask why it what does it have to do with it. I did not figure out how its connected. But something is up with that. I know the pscm plays a roll. The power steering motor was drawing power and overheating. I had no messages nor lose of power steering. I knew the fuse used to blow. On a cold night I pressed the rear defrost. Lights would dim for a second. Dash too.

---------- Post added at 02:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:08 PM ----------

Just a quick FYI. If you go into a che by dealer and complain you have steering issues. They replace the motor for free . Its a small wait time like 30-1hour. But free fresh motor.
 

wehan

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Ok so there is no click heard from drivers seat.

I get 15.3v across the jump post and ground. I get 15.3v from fuse to ground. I get 13.2v across the rear window clips unhooked from the grid and I get 0v across the clips hooked up to the grid. I do have continuity from window clip to window clip so if I turn on the defrost I should at least have 1 active element but I have none.

Hope that all makes sense.
 

YelloEye

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So it's supplying 13.2v at the contacts, but it's shorting somewhere when hooked up?
 

wehan

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It can hardly power my led test probe across the rear contacts, I believe this to be an amperage supply issue. I think when I hook it up the grid absorbs the little power there is.
 

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