How to replace control arm on the passenger side 08 Cobalt

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by switchbacker, Oct 20, 2018.

  1. switchbacker

    switchbacker Junior Member

    Posts:
    6
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    May 1, 2016
    Location:
    Toronto Canada
    How to replace control arm on the right passenger side 08 Cobalt
    I have not seen this on this site so I would like to post it.
    Get the Cobalt jacked up as high as you can, get the wheel off.
    Take the ball joint bolt off. The bolt head is 5/8 and nut is 15mm.
    Hammer on the spindle pinch and ball joint will come off.
    Take the front 2 bolts off the frame 15mm.
    Now the rear bushing bolt 13/16 or 22mm if you have it.
    If its jammed like mine was, your air gun won't budge it.
    You might break your breaker bar like I did.
    There are 2 problems. 1 is the weld nut at the top is
    ceased. 2 the bushing is ceased around the bolt.
    Because I had both problems I assume it is common.
    I know this bushing goes on the right passenger side often
    as I had it happen on my Saturn Ion (same car underneath).
    If you have an Ingersol Rand IMG_2699.JPG 20181013_171103.jpg Air Hack saw you can cut way up high
    and low inside the frame on the bushing through bushing and bolt.
    I was not able to do this with my Sawsall as I think I would have
    damaged the frame and caused a rust problem after I was done.
    Then use air hammer chisel and get at the cage over the weld nut.
    Sharpen chisel before. Cut the cage off.You will need a mirror
    to see the weld nut.You have to cut the cage blind.
    I had to remove the complete control arm before cutting through
    the bushing and bolt then pushing the top part of the bolt through
    the top and get it out. I had the cut the control arm apart around the
    Bushing using stone age tactics drilling, chiseling and air hammering.
    Was hours of labor. After I did this I was able to get all of the rubber
    out of the way. Then I torched the bushing freeing the bolt from the bushing.
    I was unable to get a wrench or a Vicegrips on the weld bolt because it
    is rectangular. Torching the weld bolt is blind. The new bolt is Dealer only.
    They don`t sell a nut so I found a hard steel hex nut at Bolts Plus.
    Then out came the Sawsall. When I torked the bolt and nut. I covers the
    nut and area with marine grease to slow down the rust process as I am
    sure my tools made some bare metal up there. I bought the middle control
    arm not the cheapest. It came with a new ball joint bolt. Everthing goes
    back together easy. Took it for a test drive, perfect!
    (The symptoms of my problem were clunking from right front side of car.
    Felt like steering was gone. Front right wheel moved front to back. Scary!)
    Hope this helps others.
    Switchbacker

    20181013_171005a.jpg
     

Share This Page