Trunk release

Woolbright

Member
Joined
May 4, 2014
Posts
40
Reaction score
0
Location
California
So I just spent the better part of my weekend installing a sound system, which means I had to take off the trim panels. In doing so I may have broken my trunk release button (which worked previously) so I need some advice.

The button won't spring back out after it's been pressed and the trunk won't release at all. What do you all think it could be?
 

YelloEye

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2009
Posts
7,601
Reaction score
23
Location
Renton, WA
Try disconnecting the switch and replacing it. If it works then you have your culprit.

Edited to avoid blowing things up.
 
Last edited:

onedoughboy

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2014
Posts
62
Reaction score
0
Location
Michigan
Don't short the wires together!!! This was a common practice about 15 years ago, but NO LONGER. The switches are not switches as in the old days. The voltage going to the switches are now 5 volts, and the BODY CONTROL MODULE is looking for a resistance value not a OPEN, CLOSED condition. Same goes for the window switches. The wires that go to the switch do not run from the switch back to the trunk either, so don't add 12 volts to it or any other circuit in the car. Try blowing the switch out with air, and maybe some contact cleaner.
 

onedoughboy

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2014
Posts
62
Reaction score
0
Location
Michigan
It's pretty simple switch. With a spring. I'm assuming you mean the button is stuck in, or is the whole assembly pushed in thru the panel? You can remove the little door that opens, GENTLY, and access the switch, unplug it. Put it in your hand button down,(like in your fist) smack your hand on table, NOT STRIKING THE SWITCH though.
 

YelloEye

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2009
Posts
7,601
Reaction score
23
Location
Renton, WA
I figured it was like the TC Button on my SS, simple open/close switch.
 

onedoughboy

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2014
Posts
62
Reaction score
0
Location
Michigan
I'm not 100% sure on the trunk button. I'm 100% sure that the body control module is what commands the trunk lid solenoid to open. And 100% sure that shorting any wires that lead to the BCM(or adding +12 volts) can be a mistake. Learned that while trying to fix a power lock issue, using old reasoning. The reason things are the way they are now, is so the wires can be thinner, and cars are much more unlikely to catch fire, also more then one switch can be on the same two wires. Old cars were pretty much HARD WIRED with 12 volts and 10 to 30 amp fuse. The fuse was safety, and some people choose to override, resulting in fires. Newer cars you can have three switches on the same two wires, needing less voltage, less current and less copper. You press a switch and BCM gets 4.7ohms it knows your asking to lock the doors, 2.5ohms, your asking to unlock the doors(I made up the values, but this is how the newer stuff is working). You can actually add cruise to a cobalt by adding the switch to steering wheel and programming the BCM(tech2 needed) to tell the car it has it. It's just looking for values to know what buttons are been pressed(there is one wire you have to run from the BCM to clock spring also). GM has a tech bulletin discouraging factory personal from doing it.
 

pitsnipe

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2010
Posts
66
Reaction score
0
Location
Hampton Roads, VA
I replaced my trunk release button with a gate switch. I ended up having to put it on the other side of the steering wheel, due to the lack of space on the trim piece. You should see the looks I get when some gets in my car and sees the bright red gate switch on the dash. I have been asked if its NOS or a taillight kill switch.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
7,432
Posts
156,463
Members
4,340
Latest member
buttonsup
Top