How-to Replace a Wheel Bearing

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Jmesl8er, Jul 8, 2011.

  1. Jmesl8er

    Jmesl8er Full Access Member

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    Here are the tools your going to need (I didn't list the pipe I used as leverage or the clamp to squeeze the caliper piston back in)
    Tire tool and socket (to get your wheel off)
    New Bearing
    Big Hammer
    3/8 Rachet
    1/2 Rachet
    6" Extension for 3/8 rachet
    3" Extension for 3/8 rachet
    3" Extension for 1/2 rachet
    30mm 1/2 drive socket
    3 Jaw puller (this is a free rental from autozone)
    Big Box end Wrench for Leverage on the 3/8 rachet

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    Chalk the rear tire up

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    Jack the car up

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    Take your caliper off (2 14mm bolts) and tie it up

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    Take off the bracket that holds the caliper (2 15mm bolts)

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    Pull off the rotor

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    Take the 1/2 rachet and 30mm socket (and a pipe to fit over the rachet for leverage) and take out the Center bolt holding the hub on

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    Take off the 3 15mm bolts from the back of the hub, this is where you'll use the 3" and 6" extension for the 3/8 rachet

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    Now position the 3 Jaw puller on the hub, pushing against the end of the axle. Use a rachet or impact to push the axle out of the hub

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    Now take the Big hammer and tap or beat the Hub/Bearing out (mine came out with a couple of taps, some of you won't be that lucky)

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    OUT!!!

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    New bearing against the old one, notice how burnt up the old one was

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    Reverse these steps to install the New bearing, make sure this tab is put back in the same spot it came from

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    Before you throw away the old bearing knock out the studs for future use

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    And thats it
     
  2. cobalt123

    cobalt123 Platinum Member

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    aproved and moved old one
     
  3. 06CobaltLS

    06CobaltLS Full Access Member

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    Awesome, thanks.
     
  4. YelloEye

    YelloEye Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Nice how-to, might want to add that the other tire needs to be on the ground and transmission should be in gear to prevent the hub from spinning. Just makes things easier.
     
  5. Jmesl8er

    Jmesl8er Full Access Member

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    I assumed that people would put it in park or 1st gear when jacking it up. I know when I park I put it in park. Guess I can't assume anything, I'll change when I get off of work. On a side note, I would'ng have had failure if I had spent the extra 40 on the Timken bearing, duralast sucks but its so cheap
     
  6. 06CobaltLS

    06CobaltLS Full Access Member

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    How much were both?
     
  7. Jmesl8er

    Jmesl8er Full Access Member

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    At Autozone, with tax, they were 95 a piece. So 190 for both, if you don't have the money you don't have to changd both at the same time, just easier because you already have all the tools out. I had a warranty for the one that died so that was free. Remember the puller is a free rental from Autozone, I bought one a long time ago though
     
  8. 06CobaltLS

    06CobaltLS Full Access Member

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    Okay thanks, I think I can go a while with out replacing them for now but I will need to do it soon. Let me go check the signs you listed in your video right now and Ill get back to ya. If i feel vibration in the strut then its a bad wheel bearing??

    ---------- Post added at 01:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:30 PM ----------

    Nothing wrong with my wheel bearing...

    It seems that the part circled in red is what the grinding noise is coming from.. anyone have any suggestions?

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  9. Jmesl8er

    Jmesl8er Full Access Member

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    Either the CV joint or the axle is bad. Need to get that fixed asap, bad problems if that goes out. Do you have vibration in the steering between 10 and 30 MPH? How many miles on the car?
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2011
  10. 06CobaltLS

    06CobaltLS Full Access Member

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    just over 68K, only vibrations are felt when braking hard off the highway. No vibrations felt while spinning the wheel and holding on to the strut.
     

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