Started my 2.2 forging

[05Turbo2.2]

also the Stock 2.2 crank can only handle (according to the build guide) safely tested to 500chp


having issues finding a place to pull the motor out and drop the built one in. The garage was my landlords and there isnt enough room to pull the car in and he wont let me pull it in there anyway. I have a friend with a garage but he has to work this weekend. So it's probably going to take me till wednesday or thursday to finish it up. Desided not to dress the engine up, running out of time and the weather has gotten too cold to paint.

 

[BlackCobalt707]

damn dude. you work fast lol. and yea, the weather has turned shitty. hope it doesnt snow again like it did last year

 

[05Turbo2.2]

if i tried hard enough, i probably could have had the engine built in a day and then the other engine pulled out and the new one in another day, and then spend a 3rd day double checking connections.

 

[BlackCobalt707]

damn, i need to learn to get this engine out the car. i got some new plans for it soon

 

[USMCFieldMP]

Disconnect a few things... drop it out the bottom. Its simple. Its all been outlined in build books from GM.

 

[05Turbo2.2]

Its a lot easier with a car hoist/lift. Lift the car enough so the tires are still touching the ground, loosen the lug nuts. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Disconnect all sensors on the engine ensuring you lable them with a sharpe and masking tape so you know where everything plugs back in. Remove the heater hoses from the engine on the back. Remove the expansion tank and hose. Depreasureize the fuel rail and disconnect the fule line. Disconnect the master cyclnder vacume line. Disconnect the EVAP valve.

Remove the tires. Disconnect the knuckles for the stearing. Lift the care up and disconnect the transaxle support bracket. Pull the drive shafts out of the spindles. Lift the care a bit more. Use and engine jack to support the sub frame. Remove the sub frame bolts while the engine jack is supporting the sub frame. Now lower the sub frame as a unit and now your enegine, trany and sub frame is out of the car.

I'm sure there is something that i missed.

Now if you arnt trying to do all that work, place wheel blocks on the back tires. Put the car in neutral. Jack the front of the car up. Remove the starter. Turning the crank by hand slowly, remove the bolts that are connecting the fly wheel to the torque converter. Lable all connectors. Disconnect all sensors and remove the Fuse box. Now use a cherry picker to support the engine. Disconnect the A/C hoses and Remove the A/C pump (for 2.2 modles. For the 2.4 modles you just remove the A/C pump and not the hoses and tuck it off to the side using some kind of restraint to keep it out of your way). Remove the engine mount to the passanger side of the compartment. Remove the motor mounts that are accessable from the underside. Disconnect all tranny bolts.

---------- Post added at 04:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:32 PM ----------

But that was all too much work for my lazy ass. Building an engine was 10000 times easier (in amount of work required) then it was to pull a motor. So i have a local shop doing the work. 600 bucks and they are pulling the old one out, putting the new one in. All i have to do is drop it off, return to pick it up and drive away.

 

[BlackCobalt707]

my friend was actually able to get the engine out from the top. i remembered he said something about aiming the motor down a little bit...too bad i was deployed when all this was going on tho. paid him $1200 to pull the old, rebuild with new parts, install my clutch and drop it back in

 

[05Turbo2.2]

Way too much work then i want to deal with. The car is at a shop right now. Should be done with it next week he said.

 

[BlackCobalt707]

lol. i dont blame you

 

[RedDead]

yeah thats a lot of work

 

[Luis]

guys i want to install Turbo on my 2007 Chevy balt 2.2L, what do i need to buy in order to have it installed, and whats a good price for all the parts? im a 20 yr old guy and i really wanna fit my lil balt up lol

 

[USMCFieldMP]

There's a decent size list of parts needed. Buy my Turbo Manifold, Turbo, Oil Lines, Wastegate, and Dump Tube... and I'll give you a detailed list of everything you need... and where to get it.

 

[05Turbo2.2]

I'm just waiting for warmer weather now so i can turn up the boost to 15lbs and street tune it. Runs like a champ. I'm going to guess some where around 310ish whp is where i might be sitting at. Currently im at a 14 whp per pound of boost over the factory whp dyno. Factoring in reduce compression im going to guess i'll be around 12 whp per pound of boost and steping it up 5lbs would calculate out to around 310whp. We will see though once i get it street tuned and then dyno'd

---------- Post added at 09:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:57 AM ----------

correction... my conversion math is wrong. i'll be at 10whp per pound of boost w/ the reduced compression. So ill be somewhere in the 290-300whp range.