Buying used Redline or ss/sc

1WhiteSSTC

Banned
Joined
Aug 2, 2009
Posts
2,572
Reaction score
0
Location
The Great White North
Hate to do this but the ss/tc has gotta go :( I still haven't found a job and nothing I get will provide me enough money to keep the ss/tc and afford track time and track time comes first..........this leaves me with only a few decent options, Ion Redline, ss/sc, NSRT4, not too much else I'd want that makes enough power to be worth it on the track.

My question is what should I look for on a used Ion Redline or ss/sc? What mileage is too high? What major things should be changed/replaced by 60,000miles? 100,000miles? What things are likely to break or have been proven to be really weak parts? Stock axles I know are bad and the stage 2 ones were the way to go.........I can't really think of much else that I remember being really weak parts on the ss/sc lol beyond the stock tune
 

They call me godly

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Posts
262
Reaction score
0
Location
Glen Fork, WV
Hate to do this but the ss/tc has gotta go :( I still haven't found a job and nothing I get will provide me enough money to keep the ss/tc and afford track time and track time comes first..........this leaves me with only a few decent options, Ion Redline, ss/sc, NSRT4, not too much else I'd want that makes enough power to be worth it on the track.

My question is what should I look for on a used Ion Redline or ss/sc? What mileage is too high? What major things should be changed/replaced by 60,000miles? 100,000miles? What things are likely to break or have been proven to be really weak parts? Stock axles I know are bad and the stage 2 ones were the way to go.........I can't really think of much else that I remember being really weak parts on the ss/sc lol beyond the stock tune

You should be able to pick up a stock SS/SC for around 10k. They are only blue booked for 12k in EXCELLENT condition. As far as mileage, mine had 67k on it and was still running strong. As long as the one you buy has been well taken care of I doubt you have any problems. Now of course as you said the Axles suck ass in the SS/SC, but mostly everything else is good to go and will hold strong for a very long time.
 

CBodnar

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2009
Posts
369
Reaction score
0
Location
New Jersey
i was thinkin about selling my car for 13k. it has 41,300 on the dash as of last night. 96.534213% highway miles. 2007. black. g85. fully loaded for a 07. have every stock part including whole spare trunk with low pro wing and a bunch of other stuff. car makes 28x whp off the bottle and 350whp + on the bottle.
 
Last edited:

dman090

Platinum Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2009
Posts
4,453
Reaction score
0
Location
Huntington TX
if i were to buy an ss/sc i wuld buy an 07, simply because i like the stering wheels in the 07-09 models lol]

---------- Post added at 10:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:40 AM ----------

i was thinkin about selling my car for 13k. it has 41,300 on the dash as of last night. 96.534213% highway miles. 2007. black. g85. fully loaded for a 07. have every stock part including whole spare trunk with low pro wing and a bunch of other stuff. car makes 28x whp off the bottle and 350whp + on the bottle.


thats a very good buy, my 07 has 43k miles, and thats low for a 4 year old car.

i would probably buy your car if i lived closer
 

CBodnar

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2009
Posts
369
Reaction score
0
Location
New Jersey
if i were to buy an ss/sc i wuld buy an 07, simply because i like the stering wheels in the 07-09 models lol]

---------- Post added at 10:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:40 AM ----------




thats a very good buy, my 07 has 43k miles, and thats low for a 4 year old car.

i would probably buy your car if i lived closer

yeah. i am going to put it up on the forums once it's nice out and i take some pic's of it as a feeler but im going to put it up for 14-15k with all spare parts and everything or 12k stock. only reason why i have the price bumped up so high is 1. i am not really interested in selling the car as the motor is strong and i have 0 problems with the car. great on gas. also have spare 16" wheels with all season tires. also 2 drag radial hoosier qtp tires aka cheater slicks. never used them though other than drove around on them for a couple miles. if i have spare time this year maybe i'll bring it to the track and just bug out like i usually do with out launching it and run a 12.x something. shouldn't be hard at all but yeah thanks and if you wanted it you could always fly out. maybe this week or weekend i'll get pic's up of what it looks like right now. most know my car as it's flawless and well taken care of. only time i've raced it was from a roll and couple times at the track but never launched it.

edit: def. raced the car more than just a couple times from a roll. lol. more like 150+ times to be realistic. hey, at least i'm honest.
 
Joined
Jul 22, 2009
Posts
44
Reaction score
0
Location
austin, tx
if you're gonna buy a used ss/sc just look for any rape action.
lol, check to see if its majorly modded scratches inside the engine bay.
make sure the car wasn't turbo swapped or anything.
also when you get it make sure the pump is working properly that is something that generally goes out around 50k.
i would listen to each piston and make sure you don't hear any weird knocks or pings coming from them. (use a screwdriver and put it on the valve cover)
also check the sunroof a lot of leakage issues there on older ss/scs.
make sure all doors close properly as well, and that the wiring works on everything.
people have def had issues there with used ones.
all in all just check for any flood issues, just normal car stuff.
the main thing i'd look for is to see if the car has been molested or not.

good luck!
 

CBodnar

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2009
Posts
369
Reaction score
0
Location
New Jersey
if you're gonna buy a used ss/sc just look for any rape action.
lol, check to see if its majorly modded scratches inside the engine bay.
make sure the car wasn't turbo swapped or anything.
also when you get it make sure the pump is working properly that is something that generally goes out around 50k.
i would listen to each piston and make sure you don't hear any weird knocks or pings coming from them. (use a screwdriver and put it on the valve cover)
also check the sunroof a lot of leakage issues there on older ss/scs.
make sure all doors close properly as well, and that the wiring works on everything.
people have def had issues there with used ones.
all in all just check for any flood issues, just normal car stuff.
the main thing i'd look for is to see if the car has been molested or not.

good luck!

if someone followed that my car would make out perfect in everything you said. damn i def. should just keep my car to see how long it can last. i hope my pump doesn't go out at 50k
 

USMCFieldMP

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2009
Posts
808
Reaction score
0
Location
Findlay, Ohio
If you are going to buy something to use at the track... then buy the Redline. Its lighter from the factory, from what I remember. You should be able to pick up an 05 Redline fairly cheaply these days. Should be cheaper than a Cobalt, as well.
 

They call me godly

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Posts
262
Reaction score
0
Location
Glen Fork, WV
if someone followed that my car would make out perfect in everything you said. damn i def. should just keep my car to see how long it can last. i hope my pump doesn't go out at 50k

If your talking about the intercooler pump, I guarantee it goes out at about 50k, I drove for nearly 10k miles without mine though :S haha, just had changed the damn thing when I wrecked :sauer028:
 

CBodnar

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2009
Posts
369
Reaction score
0
Location
New Jersey
If your talking about the intercooler pump, I guarantee it goes out at about 50k, I drove for nearly 10k miles without mine though :S haha, just had changed the damn thing when I wrecked :sauer028:

if u pop open the hood while it's running and u see fluid moving around or bubbling or w.e. u wanna call it in front of the supercharger where you put the fluid in for the h/e that means it's working. if nothing is going on or through it then it's not working. right?

---------- Post added at 03:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:28 PM ----------

If you are going to buy something to use at the track... then buy the Redline. Its lighter from the factory, from what I remember. You should be able to pick up an 05 Redline fairly cheaply these days. Should be cheaper than a Cobalt, as well.

also depends on looks though. if i only wanted power and sleeper i'd prob. get a redline but if you wanna drive around daily with a little bit more style i'd say the cobalt is a better choice. at least that's why i picked mine.
 

Robinson

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2009
Posts
983
Reaction score
0
Location
San Diego
Call me crazy but I would think the negative equity hit you are gonna take on trading in the car for an rl are gonna eliminate any cost savings that you are thinking of.



If i was unemployed I would think hobbies would be the first thing to be put on hold rather than transportation needs.
 

Aikidoshadow

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Posts
341
Reaction score
0
Location
Las Cruces, NM (aka BFE)
Start selling stuff, don't eat out as often, stop spending money, get a basic jobby job.
Otherwise...
You're going to have to sell it out right being upside down and then get another car. Best of luck becasue that is a daunting task.
 

They call me godly

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Posts
262
Reaction score
0
Location
Glen Fork, WV
if u pop open the hood while it's running and u see fluid moving around or bubbling or w.e. u wanna call it in front of the supercharger where you put the fluid in for the h/e that means it's working. if nothing is going on or through it then it's not working. right?



Exactly sir, or if your under the car for any reason you can just put your ear to the Pump and hear if its working or not.
 
Joined
Jul 22, 2009
Posts
44
Reaction score
0
Location
austin, tx
if u pop open the hood while it's running and u see fluid moving around or bubbling or w.e. u wanna call it in front of the supercharger where you put the fluid in for the h/e that means it's working. if nothing is going on or through it then it's not working. right?

---------- Post added at 03:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:28 PM ----------



also depends on looks though. if i only wanted power and sleeper i'd prob. get a redline but if you wanna drive around daily with a little bit more style i'd say the cobalt is a better choice. at least that's why i picked mine.

i agree, the cobalt looks nicer to me and the redline is a bit more of a sleeper.
as far as the fluid moving around thats exactly how you can tell if its running or not you should see a constant amount a fluid moving through the option a filler neck.
 

CBodnar

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2009
Posts
369
Reaction score
0
Location
New Jersey
neon srt4s have problems. cobalts have a lot less problems. in most cases at least around my area
 

1WhiteSSTC

Banned
Joined
Aug 2, 2009
Posts
2,572
Reaction score
0
Location
The Great White North
If you get a redline dont get an 04.

reasons?

---------- Post added at 04:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:06 PM ----------

Call me crazy but I would think the negative equity hit you are gonna take on trading in the car for an rl are gonna eliminate any cost savings that you are thinking of.



If i was unemployed I would think hobbies would be the first thing to be put on hold rather than transportation needs.

First thing to remember is I'm in Canada, things are slightly different up here, I should be able to sell my ss/tc for $22k and be left with only $2k more to pay off, brand new it was $30k and I've had it just over 1 year and put 30,000km on it, well maintained, muffler delete, airbox mod, good things overall on this ss/tc so $22k up here in Canada is a fair asking price. Going from $24k in car debt to $8k in car debt is quite the jump down so I am going in the right direction.

---------- Post added at 04:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:09 PM ----------

id say try as you can for the neon srt4

for reasons above posts had made mention of, 99% of NSRT4's are molested in some way or another, so that's why I was leaning heavily towards an LSJ Ion or Cobalt, tho I am somewhat nervous about the stock axles and haven't looked into how much stage 2's are but I'd bet it's quite a bit extra that I don't have. And now that ppl are saying the pump is gunna be gone or need to be replaced asap I am even more nervous about getting an LSJ......I'm trying to find a car for DD/track use that won't need part replacement every 10,000k
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
7,260
Posts
143,452
Members
4,439
Latest member
mdux1982
Top