getting head

ff_drift_lol

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72lb springs, retainers, valves are already sodium filled those are good, porting should cost maybe 3-400 bucks. that's about 600 right there. another thing to consider is milling the head a little to up the compression. As a general rule, you can see about a .1 point rise in compression for every .010" that you remove from either the head or block.

you can also go with 1mm oversize valves and get the seats re-cut. you can have 3 or 5 angles cut. 5 is just fancy. for boost, a steeper bottom angle will benefit more.

as far as cams, if you're not big turbo or tvs with a micro pulley on the thing just get adjustable gears. if you do ever decide to choose cams, do not for whatever reason buy aftermarket cams that are already made. call up crower, call up hks, whoever you want and have them custom grind cams for you. gm performance parts has graced us with blank cams and it should be taken advantage of. every application is different and you will want to get a grind that suits your specific build.

I would just bring the head to a machine shop, drop the thing on the desk, wave your money around. and take it from there.
 
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siccracingturtle

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72lb springs, retainers, valves are already sodium filled those are good, porting should cost maybe 3-400 bucks. that's about 600 right there. another thing to consider is milling the head a little to up the compression. As a general rule, you can see about a .1 point rise in compression for every .010" that you remove from either the head or block.

you can also go with 1mm oversize valves and get the seats re-cut. you can have 3 or 5 angles cut. 5 is just fancy. for boost, a steeper bottom angle will benefit more.

as far as cams, if you're not big turbo or tvs with a micro pulley on the thing just get adjustable gears. if you do ever decide to choose cams, do not for whatever reason buy aftermarket cams that are already made. call up crower, call up hks, whoever you want and have them custom grind cams for you. gm performance parts has graced us with blank cams and it should be taken advantage of. every application is different and you will want to get a grind that suits your specific build.

I would just bring the head to a machine shop, drop the thing on the desk, wave your money around. and take it from there.

well the main thing i need is valves. if u look in my turbo build thread i cracked a piston and it the piece came up and chipped my valve... im putting a gt2871r on my 2.2 with pistons (10:1 comp) and rods... i didnt think i needed head work.. but i pulled the head off last night and saw wat happened so now im in the market for valvetrain parts
 

ff_drift_lol

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10:1 with a 28 is a good combo I like where you're headed. the lsj valves are sodium filled they dissipate heat very well which is needed since our iat2's are through the roof. they're probably around 20 bucks a piece considering my big block valves were 12 dollars a pop. I am not sure of the valve diameter on the l61 they may be the same as the lsj. I saw what happened in the other thread. I would re-seat the valves cause of the break and get a steeper bottom angle while you're at it, do a mild port, some 72lb springs with titanium retainers, steeper keepers, adjustable cam gears and you should be good for 400+whp. anything over 400 I highly recommend sleeving the block especially the l61 since the casting is not as strong as the lsj/lnf. I don't see that running you past 600. also remember the head studs are about 150 bucks and I would do a cometic gasket too. btw I am not an expert on engine building I'd talk to a professional before you actually go through with this stuff. I'm just putting options out there.
 

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