Need higher top speed...

My_06_Balt

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I have the 06 LT Auto. What are somethings I could do to gain a higher top speed? I was racing my buddies 08 Eclipse the other night and my spedo topped out at 105 but with my bigger rims/tires it was more like 107-109.. I still won but he probably would've beat me if he would've shifted right... The only things I have done to my car is put some 17s on it and a cheapo build it yourself ram air kit from o'reilly auto parts. lol any help would be appreciated.
 

YelloEye

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Those are real fun to roll at triple digit speeds.

What you need is more acceleration, not more top speed. More power.

Please keep it on the track, last thing you want to do is cream a deer or something else at 100+.
 
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My_06_Balt

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Yeah I would take it to a track but they shut down the only local one I know of about 5 years ago.. what would you suggest for quicker acceleration then? The spot we race now is an old highway that nobody ever uses.
 

BankDude

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b&m shift plus is a cheap mod for your tranny. bolt ons and a tune will help a lot. but remember, car still fuel cuts at 112....
 

BankDude

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only a tune, but a tune is pointless unless you're fully bolted
 

UncleDave

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Long ago, in a previous life, I found myself doing 85 MPH on 1 70. Problem, I did not have my foot on the "gas". Thought of turning off the key, put then I would lock up the steering. Stood on the Brake, and was able to stall it out.

This has nothing to do with this post. However you seem to be pushing the limits, and this is were people die.

Why would you want to defeat the Gas Shutoff? #1 Safety device. Cut off the Fuel, and reduce FIRE.

I am too much of an old timer. Seen too much blood.

I should talk. Right now my Electric Steering has been failing. Seems to happen when first starting out, not after being on the road for more than a mile. Then will be OK after a few miles.

God Speed.
 

BankDude

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gm had a recall for the electronic steering... it's a free replacement, call the dealer
 

UncleDave

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Have been to two dealers, one in Canon, the the other in Colorado Springs. They want me to drive in while showing the Codes. Friends back east have not a clue what distances are here in the High Country. Bottom line is that they were of no help. I have gone through this before.

Years ago, a new engine had to be re tourqued after 1,000 miles. The American Physics boys found a way to tourque down the bolts to a given FLbs, then turn them another given Degress. This was called a Strech Bolt. I went round and round with the Dealers. Finally I came up with the fact that this was the new practice, HOWEVER, it was only for the Gas engine, NOT a Diesel, which I had. Another area was the Anti Freeze. Every one knows that this is for Freeze Protection. Not intirely true. Another factor is Electro Chemical. Two different metals in contact will cause Corrosion. Copper and Iron for example. If you use plain tap water, the salts will work on the copper, or Aluminum which are the metals most radiators are made of. Thus you Never want to add anything but Distilled water to the Radiator or the Battery. However we Americans Know better.

Took a while, but I did track down both of the Latter.

The steering, I am still working on. For the United States Government to act, and I got this straight from the Highway Safety, is to wait until someone Dies.

* * * * * * * *

God Speed

Uncle Dave
 

YelloEye

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Dave the easiest way to get the system to act up is to overheat the motor. Park the car running and rapidly turn the wheel lock to lock. Once the code triggers take the vehicle in for warranty.
 

Mo Parz

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For better acceleration, think better air in/air out.

At the ZZPerformance website they have the LE5 air inlet tube. It is just under $100 and eliminates the factory bladder style set-up. It will fit the LAP or L61 2.2l, no problem. Then get a K&N drop-in filter.

There are nice stainless shorty headers on Ebay for about $100 shipped. And 2.25" catback exhaust systems for less than $180 on there now.

The factory catback is 2.00", downpipe is 2.25", so you'll upgrade to a better freeflowing set-up for higher rpm HP.

ZZPerformance sells a very nice 2.5" downpipe if you feel like spending more.

There are better, MORE expensive ways to go but if you're on a budget this is a good start.

And none of it will drive a code/error.
 

UncleDave

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First thing I did was to contact the dealers, in person.

---------- Post added at 08:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:59 AM ----------

Yesterday, I drove across the yard to pick up the trailer. Cobalt started with the problem. Shut the car off to connect the trailer. Starting it again, the problem had cleared. Did not show up again for the rest of the day. Seems to have the problem when Cold; does not to my memory ever happen after being on the road for more than 1/2 mile.

The COLD weather is on the way. Might help to locate the problem.

The closest Dealer is some 35 miles away. Problem will clear after 10 miles or so of driving. Down US 24 from Woodland Park to Colorado Springs?

I also have a second problem. The battery voltage can go up to 14.9 while driving. This
can boil the battery. Any time I take it to a shop it will not miss behave while under test. Under the hood, with an electronic meter the battery tests 200 - 250 CCA. Replaced it. Still have the problem. The new battery tested Fail. The old battery with my tester 750 CCA. The problem can be the long cables to the battery located in the trunk. Then again it could be a bad connection. This is Colorado; the yard is on a slope, and I really do not want to get under the car to look at connectors yet.

I have been putting Dielectric paste on all the connectors as I get to them.

Lord Willing, I will find the problem. I am 69. I believe I have seen God and lived. When
I do find the root cause I will pass it on.

By the way. The new electronic tester is a 4 wire Bridge. This allows it to cancel out the effects of the leads. This can't eleminate the cable from the engine to the battery in the trunk.
 

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