Traction Bars

cobalt123

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Tools required:
1. drill
2. step drill or 5/8 drill bit
3. 15/16 wrench
4. 15/16 socket and ratchet
5. adjustable wrench
6. ramps or jack stands
7. under 30 minutes of your time for the install.


First off a picture of the traction bars and a hardware list:
1. 2 - adjustable traction bars with jam nuts
2. 2 - 4 1/2" x 5/8-11 grade 8 bolts (frame rail)
3. 2 - 3" x 5/8-11 grade 8 bolts (control arm)
4. 4 - standard flat washers
5. 8 - lock washers
6. 4 - aluminum tapered spacers
7. 4 - 5/8-11 nylock nuts

2302298_78_full.jpg


Locate the hole in the frame rail the 4 1/2" x 5/8-11 bolt goes here
2302298_56_full.jpg


This picture shows where you must mark the lower control arm for drilling, using a tape measure from the aluminum knub measure inward 2 1/2 inches mark it then mark the center of the control arm
2302298_97_full1.jpg


This picture shows what the control arm will look like after you have drilled the 5/8 hole in the control arm, note: use a 1/4 drill bit as a pilot drill so the larger drill does not walk all over the place when drilling and when your done drilling clean all of the shavings off of the top of the control arm.
2302298_98_full.jpg



Next its time to bolt up the traction bars:
hardware in this order from bottom to the top for the lower control arm: 3 1/2" long x 5/8-11 bolt, aluminum spacer, traction bar, aluminum spacer, 2 lock washers, lower control arm, flat washer, nylock nut.
hardware in this order from bottom to the top for the frame rail:4 1/2" long x 5/8-11 bolt, traction bar, aluminum spacer, 2 lock washers, frame rail, flat washer, nylock nut.
this is what the bolt order should look like for the control arm:

2302298_105_full.jpg


This is what the bolt order should look like for the frame:
2302298_105_full.jpg


Make sure before you tighten the 5/8 bolts the traction bars are loose and have plenty of play in them then tighten, Heres what it should look like installed:
2302298_96_full.jpg


Make sure you lubricate the radial bearing with white lithium grease and work it in with a side to side twisting motion after installing and periodically, Heres another picture of what it should look like but showing the top of the frame rail also:
2302298_88_full.jpg

Next we move on to adjusting the traction bars, first you will need to lower the car back down and put the weight of the car back onto the front wheels, start off by making sure the traction bars are loose when the weight of the car is on the front tires, tighten the tubes draw them in the traction bars will get shorter, tighten them by hand until they stop and you can't tighten anymore. using an adjustable wrench tighten the traction bar 1/4 turn to pre load. Tighten the jam nuts and take for a test drive if you have no wheel hop when you launch you are done, if you still have wheel hop tighten bars up 1/4 turn at a time until it is gone do not tighten more than 1 full turn.. Make sure you look at the marks left by your tires if there are no breaks in the tracks you have no wheel hop, if you still feel a little something it is engine movement not wheel hop, so you may have to buy either a torque brace or motor mout inserts to address that issue, it is so minimal you should be able to tell the difference between the engine movement and wheel hop..
 

FASTL61

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Good write up.I might be getting these.How much did they help with wheel hop?
 

07SSYellow

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good write up...i wish i had this when i did mine...we kinda just "winged" it but they turned out good....and they make a hell of a difference when it comes to wheel hop and all :)
 

ff_drift_lol

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that particular part of the cradle where that hole and lump are is where the most scrapes and scratches are...something hanging down an inch i think just from hitting a bump i'd bottom those out. i have traction bars too...they're the cobalt addiction prototypes. got em from paul 06blackg85ss, they're pretty OG. if anyone wants to buy them...100 bucks.
 

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