'06 Cobalt stereo answers needed

wehan

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Why the high voltage? Will the car even work on 18v?

I'm assuming he is compensating for voltage drop that is inevitable in a factory system, the reason why "12v" electronics are rated to operate to almost 10v and I've seen as high as 19v. This issue can be extremely detrimental in a high power 12v audio system because the input voltage is directly related to watt output. Example, my sub amp is rated @ 1000wrms @2ohm @12v, and 1500wrms @2ohm @14.5v.

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emperorjj1

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correct sorta... but no the car wont run at that high voltage. When i was see that voltage was when my amp was running 16v. The 2nd alternator and 16v kinetik batteries were separate from the stock alt and kinetik 12v charging system
 

YelloEye

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correct sorta... but no the car wont run at that high voltage. When i was see that voltage was when my amp was running 16v. The 2nd alternator and 16v kinetik batteries were separate from the stock alt and kinetik 12v charging system

Ah right, forgot you had tossed a second alternator in there. Bloody genius you managed to make that work.
 

jonny_b

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and you WILL still need a dash kit for the double din. not the expensive harness. but the kit that goes around the stereo to attach it to the dash nice and tight......

---------- Post added at 06:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:35 PM ----------

I'm assuming he is compensating for voltage drop that is inevitable in a factory system, the reason why "12v" electronics are rated to operate to almost 10v and I've seen as high as 19v. This issue can be extremely detrimental in a high power 12v audio system because the input voltage is directly related to watt output. Example, my sub amp is rated @ 1000wrms @2ohm @12v, and 1500wrms @2ohm @14.5v.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4

yes. because the factory alternator cannot keep up with high wattage systems, so basically when you are cranking the volume, the stereo is taking power from your battery that is supposed to go to other, more necessary things in the car. your headlights will dim, and sometimes your head unit will cut out from lack of power. i've seen weird things like slower wiper speed, and the fan not blowing as hard also. the more watts going out, the more the need for capacitors, extra batteries, or extra alternators in some cases.
 

YelloEye

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With the 2x 1000w RMS Pioneer Premier subs running off a Lightning Audio 1000w RMS @1ohm my stuff would almost black out the car until I installed an Optima Yellow Top. Still dimmed but not nearly as bad. Had a 1.5f cap too before the battery change but noticed no real change with it.
 

YelloEye

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I had planned to snag the 2nd amp and pair them. That is until my O-shit handle was rattled off the roof, the subs literally vibrated both screws out of the handle. That system made everything in the car move, had to tie down the rear deck with bailing wire to keep it from smacking the rear window. My center mounted radar detector would dance like nobodies business :lol:

The other reason I didn't get the 2nd is because at high levels I could smell ionized air coming out of the box, not sure if it was the voice coils toasting.
 

wehan

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I had planned to snag the 2nd amp and pair them. That is until my O-shit handle was rattled off the roof, the subs literally vibrated both screws out of the handle. That system made everything in the car move, had to tie down the rear deck with bailing wire to keep it from smacking the rear window. My center mounted radar detector would dance like nobodies business :lol:

The other reason I didn't get the 2nd is because at high levels I could smell ionized air coming out of the box, not sure if it was the voice coils toasting.

Ummmm.... Ozone... Yup that would be your coils getting hot, if you blow them up I'd go to alpine type r's.
 

emperorjj1

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ya pioneers can get loud but cant really take the power they are rated for. thats just so crazy considering the only amp ive ran that got my lights to slightly dim was a jl audio 1000/1

the T40001bd doesnt even make my lights dim
 

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