Should I buy this Cobalt

SonicStatic

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I found this cobalt on craigslist for $1,000 with 134,XXX miles, and a new clutch. The only thing wrong with is the engine power reduced light comes on. The guy said it runs and drives fine until the light comes on, then it wont got over 10 mph. Is this worth buying? Here's the ad for the car: 2005 Chevy Cobalt - Red
 

Bass_Waves

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Its a yes and no. The engine power reduced can be something simple or something difficult. For 1000$ its really not a bad deal. 5 speed is a plus. I say go look at it. Pull codes. Most likely bank 1 o2 sensor is shot if he got catalytic converter checked.

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SonicStatic

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Its a yes and no. The engine power reduced can be something simple or something difficult. For 1000$ its really not a bad deal. 5 speed is a plus. I say go look at it. Pull codes. Most likely bank 1 o2 sensor is shot if he got catalytic converter checked.

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I've read the simple things it could be are: Loose gas cap, dirty throttle body, corroded computer terminals, or dirty mass airflow sensor. I'm going to ask my boss about it at work today and see what he thinks too.
 

Bass_Waves

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Anything it can be handled with some mechanic knowledge . Or with us guiding u. Best bet is to pull codes on the car.

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YelloEye

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I say figure in a new motor, of that plus the asking price is still under blue book take it and run. Otherwise you might be in over your head when you figure out what's wrong.

Sounds like a sensor to me though, should be an easy fix. Scan for codes and report back.
 

SonicStatic

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Someone is going to look at it. The guy who is selling it said if the other guy doesn't buy it its mine.
 

SonicStatic

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I got the car! I have it in my garage and when I try to start it it just cranks and if you leave the key on after trying to start it will keep trying to crank on and off. Any ideas whats going on with it?
 

Bass_Waves

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Ignition switch is bad. There used to be a recall for key getting stuck in it. I think a new 1 is 30$ and programming it easy. Have to look at it. Other thing could be sticking solenoid on starter

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SonicStatic

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Theres some sketchy wiring on the car theres a toggle switch on the dash that I texted the guy about and he said it engages the ac clutch. so I'm thinking its a electrical problem. now when i try to start the car it doesn't crank, accessory doesn't work, and the third break light wont shut off.

---------- Post added at 11:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:01 PM ----------

Still wont crank and when I turn the key on it shows no gas and when we looked at it it said it had 1/2 tank, oil life ---%, Coolant -40 F, and Both trip A and B say ---.--- MI. Any Ideas whats wrong?

---------- Post added at 11:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:46 PM ----------

Figured out the break lights staying on. The switch by the pedal came out of place.
 

Bass_Waves

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I believe this car is a wiring nightmare. It would be easier to get a used harness and throw it in. Make sure every connector is plugged in. Look at the fuse box. Look at the bundle of wires near it.

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Bass_Waves

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I doubt it. Most likely unplugged connectors. Somebody had an issue. U can try to see if its bad.

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SonicStatic

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BWv9dCJIQAAwE8G.jpg:large


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Key on

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Bass_Waves

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There is a plug by the firewall. Check that connecter. Unplug it and plug back in fully. Next to fuse box. On firewall

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Bass_Waves

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Under the hood.

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YelloEye

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Ecu isn't paired to the motor or your key is not paired. That security light on the dash means it won't crank. So you either news to pair the key or preform a crank relearn.
 
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SonicStatic

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This plug?
BWzL1LUCQAARbpG.jpg:large


---------- Post added at 02:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:45 PM ----------

I started retracing what my brother and I did last night and found that the computer wasn't plugged back in. Now the car cranks itself when you turn the key to on and wont run then keep cranking and stopping for about 1 second on 1 second off until i take the key out
 

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