getting head

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siccracingturtle

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hey guy i want to make my head stornger with out going over board i got like 600 buck to work with.. any one got suggestions on wat to do ?
 
Cobalt Tom

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your going to want more then that to work on the head.
just bolts, gaskets, ect will run you 200$, shaving it could be as cheap as 50$, but for strengthening that means new valves and springs and retainers which are almost 600$ on their own....
i would say dont pull it off to do anything without having at leas 1k in your pocket...that will get you arp head studs, cometic head gasket, new valves, guides, seals, etc and all your fluids and such will be replaced with it, so i would factor 50+ in for extra stuff like oil, filter, coolant......

other then that you could cam it, if done right you wont ahve to remove the head and there for only have to buy the cams. you can also do stronger valve springs and if done right not have to remove it...but that requires a special tool for compressing them on the engine and a pressure setup to keep pos pressure in the cyl to keep valve in place and then the springs themselves...


it can be pretty expensive working on the head and unless you need to rev out high (not usually worth it) or you are caming it and need stronger anything or what not...youll be fine with stock. most head work in your price range you will only need if you are making the power to use it....in which case do whatever needs to be done no matter price or save up
 
mrsilent13

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hit up SBR...they have a sale for port and polish and fully built head for 750...350 gets it started and then when they finish you send them the rest and they ship it back
 
Cobalt Tom

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mrsilent13 said:
hit up SBR...they have a sale for port and polish and fully built head for 750...350 gets it started and then when they finish you send them the rest and they ship it back
Click to expand...
this is true, but that deal and the guy doing the work will be leaving the shop soon...
 
mrsilent13

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i know....which sucks for me...cuz i could not come up with the money in time

---------- Post added at 05:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:11 PM ----------

hopefully his dad can hook it up when i get the cash
 
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siccracingturtle

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Cobalt Tom said:
your going to want more then that to work on the head.
just bolts, gaskets, ect will run you 200$, shaving it could be as cheap as 50$, but for strengthening that means new valves and springs and retainers which are almost 600$ on their own....
i would say dont pull it off to do anything without having at leas 1k in your pocket...that will get you arp head studs, cometic head gasket, new valves, guides, seals, etc and all your fluids and such will be replaced with it, so i would factor 50+ in for extra stuff like oil, filter, coolant......

other then that you could cam it, if done right you wont ahve to remove the head and there for only have to buy the cams. you can also do stronger valve springs and if done right not have to remove it...but that requires a special tool for compressing them on the engine and a pressure setup to keep pos pressure in the cyl to keep valve in place and then the springs themselves...

it can be pretty expensive working on the head and unless you need to rev out high (not usually worth it) or you are caming it and need stronger anything or what not...youll be fine with stock. most head work in your price range you will only need if you are making the power to use it....in which case do whatever needs to be done no matter price or save up
Click to expand...

well im bujilding my bottom end right now so i have arp bolt and head gasket just thought id do i a lil work to head... im throwing it on boost.. ima start a build thread real quick lol
 
Cobalt Tom

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well shit, shoulda said that ;)
buy valves, seals, springs, and retainers and seats and install. call it a day lol
 
ff_drift_lol

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72lb springs, retainers, valves are already sodium filled those are good, porting should cost maybe 3-400 bucks. that's about 600 right there. another thing to consider is milling the head a little to up the compression. As a general rule, you can see about a .1 point rise in compression for every .010" that you remove from either the head or block.

you can also go with 1mm oversize valves and get the seats re-cut. you can have 3 or 5 angles cut. 5 is just fancy. for boost, a steeper bottom angle will benefit more.

as far as cams, if you're not big turbo or tvs with a micro pulley on the thing just get adjustable gears. if you do ever decide to choose cams, do not for whatever reason buy aftermarket cams that are already made. call up crower, call up hks, whoever you want and have them custom grind cams for you. gm performance parts has graced us with blank cams and it should be taken advantage of. every application is different and you will want to get a grind that suits your specific build.

I would just bring the head to a machine shop, drop the thing on the desk, wave your money around. and take it from there.
 
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siccracingturtle

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ff_drift_lol said:
72lb springs, retainers, valves are already sodium filled those are good, porting should cost maybe 3-400 bucks. that's about 600 right there. another thing to consider is milling the head a little to up the compression. As a general rule, you can see about a .1 point rise in compression for every .010" that you remove from either the head or block.

you can also go with 1mm oversize valves and get the seats re-cut. you can have 3 or 5 angles cut. 5 is just fancy. for boost, a steeper bottom angle will benefit more.

as far as cams, if you're not big turbo or tvs with a micro pulley on the thing just get adjustable gears. if you do ever decide to choose cams, do not for whatever reason buy aftermarket cams that are already made. call up crower, call up hks, whoever you want and have them custom grind cams for you. gm performance parts has graced us with blank cams and it should be taken advantage of. every application is different and you will want to get a grind that suits your specific build.

I would just bring the head to a machine shop, drop the thing on the desk, wave your money around. and take it from there.
Click to expand...

well the main thing i need is valves. if u look in my turbo build thread i cracked a piston and it the piece came up and chipped my valve... im putting a gt2871r on my 2.2 with pistons (10:1 comp) and rods... i didnt think i needed head work.. but i pulled the head off last night and saw wat happened so now im in the market for valvetrain parts
 
ff_drift_lol

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10:1 with a 28 is a good combo I like where you're headed. the lsj valves are sodium filled they dissipate heat very well which is needed since our iat2's are through the roof. they're probably around 20 bucks a piece considering my big block valves were 12 dollars a pop. I am not sure of the valve diameter on the l61 they may be the same as the lsj. I saw what happened in the other thread. I would re-seat the valves cause of the break and get a steeper bottom angle while you're at it, do a mild port, some 72lb springs with titanium retainers, steeper keepers, adjustable cam gears and you should be good for 400+whp. anything over 400 I highly recommend sleeving the block especially the l61 since the casting is not as strong as the lsj/lnf. I don't see that running you past 600. also remember the head studs are about 150 bucks and I would do a cometic gasket too. btw I am not an expert on engine building I'd talk to a professional before you actually go through with this stuff. I'm just putting options out there.
 
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